Mosin Nagant sticky bolt "my solution" with pix

First off this is my own opinion and what I did to fix my “sticky bolt” I am not a gunsmith, or machinist but an aircraft mechanic since 1982. I have numerous Mosin Nagant (amongst other mil-surplus rifles) rifles dating from 1917 to the late 50’s, hex, round, sniper, non-sniper, bolt action, semi-automatic. I go to the range every weekend and run thru numerous rounds so during cleaning I get very familiar with my weapons.

I take no responsibility for whatever you do with your rifle; this is for information purposes only, so if you “screw” it up it is not my fault.

The “sticky bolt syndrome” has always amazed me with the “firing line gossip”, “gun show table talk”, etc.

What prompted me to write this was a “gentleman” at the range yesterday, saying how crappy the Mosin are and were built and the fact that “ALL” comsoline must be removed before the bolt will function correctly.

I say “NOT SO”, to a point, yes it is best to have all the comsoline removed it’s a MIL spec corrosion inhibitor, great product for its designed purpose but not so much on a functioning weapon. The machining of the parts for the Mosin, yes, that has a lot to be desired. If you “go over” the rifle you want to buy there are many surfaces to look at, I am not going to name each one, but after a few rifles you will know which ones the machining sucks on and you will pass on those. Also review 7.62.net for more info so you are better prepared on your hunt of a Mosin, for a collector grade or dare I say “sporterize”.

Back to the story looking at my picture you will see the “nicks/gouges” to remove, smooth, blend whatever name you want to hang it and most likely your “sticky bolt” will go away.

How one may ask, very simple answer, the nick/gouge in the camber will contact the casing, (pick up a spent case or look at the picture attached) after firing the case will expand and will wedge itself on the nick. You will notice that your bolt will be a pain to open, if at all and you may need the assistance of a 2x4.

How does one do this, I took a cleaning rod, wrapped 800 grit body sandpaper and secured it with blue tape to the rod, (yes very crude but functional) removed my bolt and attached the rod to a cordless drill motor set very slow and “polished” the opening to remove the nick and burrs. Additionally I “polished” each mating surface of rotating parts on the bolt and rifle; you’ll see which ones are “rough” once done you will feel how smooth your bolt and rifle functions. DON’T take too much metal off you will make you weapon dangerous to you and others, take your time. One item I use on moving surfaces is EWG Extreme Weapons Grease Slip 2000, I found it at “The Armory” in Virginia Beach, manufactured by Superior Sales Slip 2000 - Official Web Site I apply a small amount by hand a wipe off the excess.

Well that is all I have for now, feel free to drop me a PM, make comments, suggestion, etc. Most of all be safe for others and yourself and keep your powder dry.
Attachment 36480Attachment 36481
Tigershark out.

I have done the same to several , a 1915 and a 1930, that had the sticky bolt problem.

How can you tell if your MN has a "sticky bolt"? My 4 all seem to be abit "sticky" to open (or is when closing the bolt?) compared to my other mil-surps. I assumed it was a MN thing.

I use Froglube on the bolt of one of mine. It made it so slick I was actually concerned the bolt might not hold under fire. Froglube is a nontoxic cleaner and lubricant.

Instead of using emery cloth I use broken belt sander belts. The cloth is very resistant to oils, water or anything that might be coated on a Milsurp rifle. Most of the time I just need a small piece to get the job done. Somewhere on the belt is a piece with the perfect grit. Once you find the perfect piece you can wash it when it's fouled.

A brass cleaning brush in 20ga coated in Hoppes mounted on a drill. In the chamber. Start off slow and gradually go faster :)

Cleans the heck out of that chamber!!


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