I would like to just use a paint brush and paint the inside of the stock with BLO and let it soak up some oil. Any ideas if this is a good or bad idea? I've done it on an M1 rifle and it really seemed to soak it up. Any ideas?
Printable View
I would like to just use a paint brush and paint the inside of the stock with BLO and let it soak up some oil. Any ideas if this is a good or bad idea? I've done it on an M1 rifle and it really seemed to soak it up. Any ideas?
I don't know if it's good or bad but I lightly BLO my stocks inside and out. I understand they were factory dipped and drip dried originally so the inside is certainly not unfinished wood. JMHO
Dave, I'd do it. It will certainly seal the wood and help prevent drying and cracking. But, then again. I like BLO finishes on my carbines. When I "freshened up" the stock on my un-messed with Inland, and the shooter stock for it, I BLOed the inside also.
Oiling the inside is a great idea.
I like to thin the BLO in half with Mineral spirits AFTER I'VE WARMED THE BLO UP. Better penetration.
Good idea to screw a recoil plate screw on until it pops out the bottom threads of the Escutheon nut, Wipe grease on the ends threads first.
Just keep wiping the external sides clean of BLO until no more runs out.
If the buttplate will come off I also like to stand the end grain in a pool of blo, so it soaks in to the end grain.
CH-P777
Use raw linseed oil cut 1:1 with turpentine. BLO has driers in it that allow it to set-up and turn into a hard coating which doesn't allow future oil to penetrate.
Thanks very much guys. I look inside that beautiful Winchester stock and think "Boy could this use some oil".
The raw linseed oil will definitely soak in better and not produce as much shine. Hard to find except in art supply stores in small quantities for outrageous prices. (US only, other countries it's naot as big a drama.)
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tuff0202-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tuff0232-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tuff0222-1.jpg
Non-toxic to boot!
Ooorr...in the health food section of some grocery stores for a somewhat better price with a fancy name. (Linseed oil is made from flax seed):
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...uff00221-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tuff0053-1.jpg
It's actually quite tasty. I like it on Southern -style cooked down green beans. Less artery clogging than the lard...
Keeping it in the 'fridge does prolong shelf life- if it doesn't get eaten! The last of the Grumbacher's linseed oil has started to thicken, but the Whole Foods linseed oil is still good. (Did have to buy a bigger bottle for kitchen use, as this test bottle was draining quickly...)
I would not brush it on . Rub it in a drop or two at a time . Should not take much unless not taken care of for years.
Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoore
Shelf life? Probably longer than mine. The linseed oil I use for external good looks was originally comestible oil from a food shop. Pre-1990. And it now has the consistency of comb honey. This liquid gold is indeed applied drop by drop - it's nice to think that my rifles are living healthily, with all those Omega 3 constituents.
But for oiling inside the stocks, I use linseed oil from a professional paint suppliers. This is not yet so venerable (only about 15 years) and soaks into the wood more readily. And I do paint it on on the inside, using a small, rather stiff brush (like a fine glue brush) to get into every corner.
For us shooters, who normally keep our rifles out of the rain, oil on the outside of the stock is largely cosmetic, but oiling the inside is a conservation measure that should not be overlooked. So brush it in well.
Like Charlie & others, I do cut my BLO 50/50 to thin it down before I hand rub it on inside and out. For years I used mineral spirits but somebody turned me on to turpentine a couple of years ago and I do like it better. It may be my imagination but it seems to go on smoother, dries faster, smells better and I kinda like the 'organic' concept - it comes almost directly from trees. I understand the RLO concept, both functional and historical, and I have no argument with it. However, my stocks are not museum grade and don't receive the continuous rough treatment and frequent oiling that an in-service stock requires, so build-up is not as much of a problem with the BLO as compared to the RLO. The thinly applied BLO dries faster and gives me the look and protection I want on my stocks. Works for me. To each his own.