Re-doing a stock, need some help!
Been lurking around here for quite a while enjoying everyone's projects and I finally decided its time to clean up one of my guns. I picked up No 4 Mk 1 a couple years ago and the previous owner (or someone before him) put a heavy dose of varnish on it and there are drip marks and heavier layers and thinner layers all over. So I thought it was time to remove that and re-seal it.
My question is what would be the best way to remove this varnish without damaging the wood underneath and losing the character? What would be the best thing to use to seal it after? I have some ideas but thought I would ask the experts! Hopefully you can see what I'm talking about in the pics.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...da2996f2-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...43fbf068-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...09fdf422-1.jpg
3 Attachment(s)
How to clean up a treacle rifle
Thick, gungy varnishes are easy to remove. The prominent chip in the second photo of the first post shows that the varnish has hardly penetrated the pores of the wood. That stock should clean up like the example below - if you do it my way.
No sanding, no water, no problem.
Use the kind of paint stripper that comes as a jelly, and contains various kinds of xxx-ols and xxx-enes, I forget which. Nasty stuff on your hands. Wear protective gloves and wash it off immediately if you get any on your skin It feels nice and cool for a couple of seconds, then starts to burn like hell.
Apply with a natural bristle brush with a wooden handle - NOT a plastic/nylon brush, which will soon dissolve!
Remove with methylated spirits.
Wipe down with turpentine.
Smooth with one of these - drawn, not scraped:
Attachment 41355
Add linseed oil generously INSIDE AND OUTSIDE and wipe off !
Wait a couple of days (a week is better, if you have the patience), rub down, and proceed with linseed oil polishing.
And turn THIS
Attachment 41354
into
THIS
Attachment 41356
Yes, that really is the same stock. If you look closely you can see the filled-in woodworm holes!
It works.
This method has another enormous advantage - you can treat a section at a time, making it much, much easier to hold the stock while you work. And you will not degrade any stamps!
Please, don't mess up the wood by soaking it, applying caustic agents, and then drying it out too rapidly.