Type 30 Bayonet Repair

Gents,
I debated on where to post this... under gunsmithing... restoration... or here. As I have seen previous posts on Bayonets on this forum, I dropped it here. If I have errored, please move to a better location.:surrender:
As some of you know, I am a freak when it comes to sad junk (that I get from gunshows). :dunno: As such, I came into possession of some Type 30 Japanese bayos that need some help. My disclaimer, is that if the blades were rare, or in better shape, I would suggest that it would be prudent to NOT restore the grips. But as these are more common, and the wood working was easy, I figured I would put these back together. :cool:

So.. the mysterious rivets... what exactly are they? Well, they appear to be a softer steel shaft around 1/8in or less, that are peened over a "ferrule". Here is a photo to show what they look like:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...63141ec2-1.jpg

What I did, was to carefully tap and dislodge the ferrule after cleaning and lubing up the 1/8in shaft. This got it out of the way! I then tapped the "rivet" into some sort of cylinderical shape. As this involved some filing to get it so I could slip the ferrule back out (for pattern making or reuse). Keep as much metal on that shaft, as you WILL be using it to shape back into a rivet when you are done. And remember, metal can "work harden"... as I won't take a torch to this to resoften (do more harm than good), go slow and make each working process count.
The first blade to restore was missing half of 1 grip.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...d16ea2cb-1.jpg
Please note that under the grip, I found an inspectors mark! Interesting!!
After pulling the wood remainder off, I dimensioned out a block of cherry wood.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...96c8bea7-1.jpg
I had cherry, but walnut would do well also!
Next up, was the creation of a "shelf". If you look closely at your bayo, you will notice that the contoured section has both halves of the wood meeting each other. To make this happen, I did this!
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...9c604e82-1.jpg

Next up was to insert the block into the pommel area. This allowed the original rivet/ stakes to be used to position the wood, and allow me a drilling pattern!

With the old wood opposite side in place, I got our a half round "rasp/ file" and contoured the new chunk!
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...defda2d8-1.jpg
I would suggest that the area metal and old wood be prepped with tape to prevent damage via sharp tools or slips.

Careful work leads to this!
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...5fa82345-1.jpg
Comparison of the new wood:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...cae8fdf8-1.jpg
Note that the bottom bayo has begun the restoration/ repair process.
Also note that I haven't repeened the "rivet" over again to hold the ferrule. The rivet diameter is around 1/8in. Whereas the ferrule diameter is a bit under 1/4in.
Here is a quick shot of the 2nd bayonet, and the rotted wood on the 2nd wood panel:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...639e5470-1.jpg

This second blade will be a harder repair. Both the ferrule and steel "rivet" shaft were rusted beyond belief. They effectively powdered during careful removal. As I have a lathe, making a new ferrule is a snap, along with drilling a new "rivet shaft"!

Also, what made the first blade so cheap, was the missing mechanism/ latch. As I have a loose one on another full bayonet, I will use it to pattern parts! Stay tuned and warm!:cheers: