Sighting in a Garand

Okay guys, I'm sure this is child's play for most, but would y'all mind explaining how to sight in a Garand (with lockbar sights) in the most simple, dumbed down version possible. Lets just assume I have absolutely no experience sighting in a weapon.

Lets say you are firing on a 100 yard range. I would put about 5 clicks of elevation and set windage at center mark ( zero windage). Take a shot and see if you hit target. If you had no hit then pick an object in the mound of dirt behind the target, if possible. Fire at the object and see if you can identify how high or low you are hitting. Remember that 1 click of elevation moves the strike of the bullet 1 inch for every 100 yards. So at 100 yards if you see you are hitting 10 inches below the object you fired at you would have to raise your elevation by 10 clicks. Now with 15 clicks of elevation fire at the target again. You should be on paper. Now depending on where you hit, adjust the elevation and windage (same way, one click for each inch you want to move). Lock bar sight makes no difference other than you need to loosen the bar to raise and tighten to lock after setting elevation.

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Originally Posted by Joe W

Lets say you are firing on a 100 yard range. I would put about 5 clicks of elevation and set windage at center mark ( zero windage). Take a shot and see if you hit target. If you had no hit then pick an object in the mound of dirt behind the target, if possible. Fire at the object and see if you can identify how high or low you are hitting. Remember that 1 click of elevation moves the strike of the bullet 1 inch for every 100 yards. So at 100 yards if you see you are hitting 10 inches below the object you fired at you would have to raise your elevation by 10 clicks. Now with 15 clicks of elevation fire at the target again. You should be on paper. Now depending on where you hit, adjust the elevation and windage (same way, one click for each inch you want to move). Lock bar sight makes no difference other than you need to loosen the bar to raise and tighten to lock after setting elevation.

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That made it all perfectly clear! Thanks a ton! I'll post range reports soon!

The Army simulates 100 yards by zeroing at 25 -- each click then moves the impact 1/4 inch. Start at 11 clicks up and zero windage, the average for the M1. SHOOT THREE SHOTS. See where the center of the shot group is, then move the sight to bring it to the point of aim in stages. When you have it, leave the windage alone but count the clicks as you move elevation down to the bottom. That will give you your zero. Put a piece of tape on the inside of the butt trap door, write your zero on it as Up 13, R 3 or whatever number of clicks it turns out to be. You can then always return to zero by running the sight down to the bottom and adding the right number of clicks of elevation.

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Originally Posted by bob seijas

The Army simulates 100 yards by zeroing at 25 -- each click then moves the impact 1/4 inch. Start at 11 clicks up and zero windage, the average for the M1. SHOOT THREE SHOTS. See where the center of the shot group is, then move the sight to bring it to the point of aim in stages. When you have it, leave the windage alone but count the clicks as you move elevation down to the bottom. That will give you your zero. Put a piece of tape on the inside of the butt trap door, write your zero on it as Up 13, R 3 or whatever number of clicks it turns out to be. You can then always return to zero by running the sight down to the bottom and adding the right number of clicks of elevation.

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That sounds great, because I'm not sure how far our local range is yet, as I haven't been. Question: y'all keep saying "clicks." I'm assuming y'all aren't meaning an audible click, as mine doesn't make any noise when adjusting. So how can you measure a "click"?

Your sight has graduated notches on it. It physically clicks when turned or it's gimped...and needs a new knob. The right one only does it every quarter turn but the left is very fine clicks. Like a ratchet.