Adjusting pattern 1918 scope for elevation

I need to adjust the elevation on my HT

The rifle groups very well....15 mm at 50 metres but is five inches high and two inches left.

What bold adjustments do I need to make to get on paper at 100 yards and what range should it be zeroed at?

Thanks for your help.

Craig

Zeroing those scopes ain't an exact science, believe me! I think it's more to do with the mystic arts and sciences to be honest.

I would boresight the rifle on an object at your zeroing range of 50 yards (please......... forget this metric stuff with imperially calibrated kit..... Metres is something you stick coins into!). Mind you, 50 yards is not a well known zeroing option to my mind. Anyway, bure sight, hold riflke tight and THEN adjust scope for deflection in the usual way via the front prism while looking through the telescope and SEE the prism bending the rays of light that forms the image as you do. When it's exactly there for horizontal you can fairly accurately adjust for range.

Next time you're on the range, all you have to do is to adjust for the correct range, on the range drum.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Zeroing those scopes ain't an exact science, believe me! I think it's more to do with the mystic arts and sciences to be honest.

I would boresight the rifle on an object at your zeroing range of 50 yards (please......... forget this metric stuff with imperially calibrated kit..... Metres is something you stick coins into!). Mind you, 50 yards is not a well known zeroing option to my mind. Anyway, bure sight, hold riflke tight and THEN adjust scope for deflection in the usual way via the front prism while looking through the telescope and SEE the prism bending the rays of light that forms the image as you do. When it's exactly there for horizontal you can fairly accurately adjust for range.

Next time you're on the range, all you have to do is to adjust for the correct range, on the range drum.

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Thanks Peter,

The problem is I can't lower the elevation enough. I am as low as the drum goes and I am still high. Do I need to loosen the screws on the top so that I can rotate the ring to allow me to wind the scope down some more? I am sure it is not a simple as that....

Don't want to touch it without having a good idea of what to do.

Craig

Craig,

Actually it is as simple as that. This new fangled "Zero stop" that Nightforce push is nothing new and your scope simply has a mechanical stop. Back off the three screws on top of the elevation drum slightly and you will be able to rotate the drum and lower the graticule pointer, then when your done slip the ring so that the range marks correspond and tighten the screws again.

IIRC the graduations on the prism equate to 5 mins of angle per marking.

Cheers,

Simon.

Thanks Simon,

I really hope it is that easy.

I really enjoyed shooting her and watching that group print...

Regards,

Craig

Your elevation is set for about 600/700yds

Just remember to correct for windage first, as windage also alters elevation on these scopes.