SMLE bolt & nosecap serial number stamping

All,
Semi follow-on to the SMLE bolt under turn post.......since the my "new" (NOS) bolt body has no serial number (never installed in a rifle) I'm thinking of stamping my rifle serial number (I4051) on the bolt handle. Since the bolt will be fitted to this rifle this seems to make sense, follows historical precedent, etc...(and is certainly not an attempt to fob off the bolt as original to the rifle....which is staying with me:) So the question....was there a specific stamping method & tools employed to do this or was the bolt just properly supported and a simple hammer & metal stamp set used to do the job? I also have a new un-issued nosecap that will be fiitted to the rifle (the current one is really beat up and not original) and I assume that the same method would be used to stamp the sn on the bayonet lug face?
Thanks!
GC

We simply used the stamp set 'as issued' to the Armourers shop. I wouldn't worry your *** worrying about whether you are or seem to be passing your new bolt as original GC. There's every chance that the 'original' ain't original either! And that many of the other parts ain't 'original' either now that I think of it. It's a fact that a rifle only ever goes into an Armourers shop when somethings wrong with it, If it ain't wrong or broke, then we didn't fix them! If the bolt is set up right, is matched to the body and CHS's, then it's range tested and stamped to match. Same as the nose-cap. If it fits the fore-end and top handguard correctly and allows the free movement and part restricted movement of the barrel, rifle passes the accuracy test, then it's numbered

New nose-caps were not a common replacement as they rarely ever went wrong once fitted as when the accuracy was suspect and the blame fell onto the binding/obstructing nose cap, your first thought was the fore-end. As for eplacing something 'because it looked beat-up............' Nope!!!!!

I think bolts should match the action so stamp away.

Peter,

Thanks. when the work of fitting is finished I'll stamp the parts. At a minimum it will lessen my confusion when I've got several rifles in bits on the bench;)

GC

Yes, please number parts. The reason you give IS the reason for numbering them. Imagine working on 15 or so at a time and all coming back from the oil dip at different times!

A different view; Unless the rifle ends up alongside you in your grave it won’t be with you forever. It is not your intention to deceive anyone but at some point in the the future it will be described as an all matching and therefore more valuable example although a critical part had been replaced while not in military service (even though fitted correctly). I think I would leave the bolt unmarked or if I was concerned about mixing up parts on the bench just stamp the last two digits of the S/N. Just my opinion which, along with a dollar, will buy you a small cup of coffee... maybe

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Steve H. in N.Y.

A different view; Unless the rifle ends up alongside you in your grave it won’t be with you forever. It is not your intention to deceive anyone but at some point in the the future it will be described as an all matching and therefore more valuable example although a critical part had been replaced while not in military service (even though fitted correctly). I think I would leave the bolt unmarked or if I was concerned about mixing up parts on the bench just stamp the last two digits of the S/N. Just my opinion which, along with a dollar, will buy you a small cup of coffee... maybe

---

Interesting thought, Steve. I could certainly skip the "I" in the serial number (I4051) and just stamp "4051". Properly IDs the part to the rifle yet hopefully avoids the potential for confusion wrt "originality" down the road. Of course, as I stated previously the rifle is not going anywhere during my lifetime. And, when I've "moved on" and the rifle has too it may generate a post here...."I've just acquired a 1918 SMLE MkIII* and the serial number on the bolt and nosecap is missing the letter "I"....any idea why?" :)

We wopuld occasionally just mark the number using the last four of the serial number. That also applied to LB and Savages too. Ther chance of it being paired with another with a similar 'last four' were so remote......