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the trigger pull is grungy and hard. are there gunsmiths that can do the job in texas or wisconsin?
or where ever if i would send the trigger group?
or is this a do it yourself project? where would one find instructions with pictures or videos ?
is there somebody that supplies replacement parts that when installed (drop in) make for a smooth, crisp trigger pull of about 2.5 to 3.0 # ?
max morgan, new member today, march 29, 2014
email cmwistex@gmail.com
Can you post a picture of the trigger housing/group?
Leave it complete, don't pull any internals.
I'd like to see how dirty it is on top of the trigger, where the sear rides.
More later, late here.
Charlie-Painter777
Welcome Max,
It's always good to get new members coming to the forum. When you have some time, check out the sticky threads and some of the old threads. You will find plenty of information.
As for the trigger being grungy. Does that mean heavy, sticking? Dirt, springs, burrs, like Charlie mentioned hard to know without seeing a picture.
Also up in the sticky thread section is a tutorial on posting pictures, written by Harlan. How do I show pics from Photobucket, Flickr, ImageShack etc. on milsurps.com?
Read, ask questions, and participate, enjoy the forum.
The design is not set up for that. The manufacturers had trouble getting them down under 8lbs in some cases, 10lbs. They changed the hammers, hammer springs and sears and got them down somewhat. If you have a later model, you will see the sear is polished at the contact point, this helped somewhat. It just isn't a target piece. With handloads I can hold the ten ring on an SR-1 at 100yds with my NPM (which was one of the better makers). The trigger is a lot like a stock M16, not crisp, and too heavy.
A picture will help.
Curious if he might have the early 26 coil hammer spring.... Among other thoughts.
Charlie-Painter777
EDIT: Wanted to say 22 coil spring (The Early One).
My Winchester has about a 5-6 pounds trigger pull from the factory. I had an Underwood that had about 12! I see great variation. if you buff the nose of the disconnector and lube it with white lithium grease, it lightens up a lot.
Just Some Of The Tips From:
http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Man...-1276_1947.pdf
c. STONING NOSE OF SEAR. If sear nose or hammer notch becomes
burred or unevenly worn, preventing proper seating of nose of sear in
notch, the burs may be removed in an emergency, and uneven surface
leveled with a fine grained sharpening stone. Stone surface to a polish
only, being careful to maintain angle of face. Stoning should be done
only by trained ordnance personnel. If possible, parts should be replaced
by selective assembly.
d. CORRECTING TRIGGER PULL. (1) A light or heavy trigger pull
may be caused by foreign matter or burs in the sear notch in the hammer,
on the nose of the sear, on the top of rear end lip of trigger where
the rear end of sear rests, or in the elongated pivot hole in the sear.
Such burs or foreign matter will prevent nose of the sear from seating
fully in hammer notch. To correct, remove foreign matter or stone
burred surfaces to a polish, using a fine grained sharpening stone,
taking care to maintain surfaces, angle, and sharp edges. Replace
badly burred or damaged parts. Stoning should be done only by trained
ordnance personnel.
(2) A light pull may also be due to a weak or broken sear spring
which will not seat the sear fully in the hammer notch before the
pressure from hammer spring is applied to the nose of sear through the
hammer. Correct by removing foreign matter or replace sear spring.
(3) Uneven surface of hammer notch or worn nose of sear may also
cause a light pull. Correct by stoning surfaces evenly, being careful to
maintain angles and sharp corners of faces stoned.
HTH,
Charlie-Painter777
Stoning of the trigger parts in a carbine should really not be done at all. Much safer to replace bad parts as it does not take much stoning to suddenly have a carbine go full auto that will not stop till the magazine is empty. The best thing you can do is make sure you have a type 2 trigger, type 2 or 3 sear and type 3 hammer. The trigger and sear were redesigned just to help improve the trigger pull in the carbine. It was made for battle and not top accuracy beyond 2 to 4 inches at 100 yards. The use of the type 3 barrel band and the pot belly stock did help improve over all accuracy of the carbine as well as having a type 3 recoil plate.
Hi Bruce !!
I 100% agree.
CH-P777