Continuation of 2010 post for "No 32 mk3 turrets wont turn"

Continuation of 2010 post for "No 32 mk3 turrets wont turn"

The web site asks that I post a new thread and reference the original one.

No 32 mk3 turrets wont turn

I have a No 32 MkIII Taylor-Hobson and Co number 24858 that has frozen turrets. It is attached to a matching scope and matching bracket to rifle which is also matching rifle to bolt.
I can "rock" the turrets about 1/32 of an inch which makes me believe that this is a solidified grease in the clicker plunger housing issue.

The optics are crystal clear.... the scope is in excellent shape... the rifle even had a little cosmoline on the sight block and sights. This is a recent purchase so apparently this (T) has been a safe queen. The scope looks like it has not been messed with since it was installed in its mount.

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With the apparent risk to being flamed by the fellow forum members... and the knowledge that everyone says to send it to Mr. Laidler I can't stomach the risk of letting the scope out of my sight because I am concerned that it could get lost in the mail.

I figure if it is an issue with solidified grease in the clicker plunger housing then I should be able to correct that. If not then I will have no choice but to put it in the mail.

I have the graphite grease, Kroil penetrating oil to help lossen the exterior screws, jewelers screwdrivers, I am making a tool to remove the lead screw nut (#33 on page 43 book "Telescope sighting No.32") and a already have the 4 8BA screws removed from the windage turret (without much damage to the screw heads other than what looks like paint coming off. I will cold blue the screw heads after reinstalling) but I cannot get the what I believe is the plate or "index plate" (#34 on page 43 in Laidlers book "Telescope sighting No.32") off the main body turret housing. I have tapped it a few times with the plastic handle of my biggest screw driver and so far it is still in there solid due to the mastic.

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I am concerned that if I tap to hard or too much I may dislodge the crosswire. So my questions are:

1) How hard can I tap on the turret tops?

2) What part # from page 43 is the "lead screw retaining collar" which is mentioned in the 2010 post? Is that the same as the lead screw nut?

3) When in the previous post from 2010 "tap from side to side and NOT front to back" I just want to verify that side to side from one side of the scope housing to the other side perpendicular to the way you would look though the scope? I included a picture just to make sure I don't mess anything up.

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4) Note: on my Elevation turret the drum is showing turned pass the numbers on the drum. Is this anything to be concerned about? I don't think it is but just wanted to check.

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5) If Mr. Laidler reads this post I wanted to ask permission to just post a picture of the Mk3 exploided view for just the turret parts that is in your book. If not then I understand... folks need to buy the book.


Thank again for your time and advice.

Corco

FYI - if Mr. Laidler ever wanted to have an online No 32 class I would pay for that. I think an Internet connection, web cam, microphone and laptop with something such a Skype installed on could work?

Just be a bit brutal and tap the underside of the drum heads a bit at a time, alternately and the complete turret head will start to lift clear. It will bring with it the turret assembly, the lead screw and lead screw nut.

When it and the other one is out, the clicker plungers will be easy to lift out with snipe nosed pliers. But before this happens, the graticle block will probably spring out because you haven't released the load on the graticle shoe springs. When the grat block springs out (that holds the grat and crosswire, but don't worry I'll send you some more cross wire.....) the grat block shoes will follow and being an akward shape that will not spring OUT, they will fold backwards into the main tube.

When that happens you will need to remove the erector cell, but not always of course as you CAN get the shoes to fall out after they have contaminated the front lens in the erector cell.

Got that so far...................... There's no need to send it to the UK, there are several others in the US and Canada who can repair these.

If I was you I would practice with an old heap first

Thank you Peter for your honesty. I think I might just say a little prayer and mail it off and save the cursing for someone else. You are right my first repair should be on an old heap instead of turning this one into an old heap.

I just wanted to learn while my mind is somewhat in tact and there are kind folks like you to help guide us so that when there are no more experienced and highly skilled people around we can still have some idea on how to fix these pieces of history.

I put the same screws in the same holes they came out of. At least whoever gets to work on it has 4 8BA screws they don't need to coax them out.

Thanks,

Corco

If it comes here please remove the bracket as it goes into a special 'spit' jig and it tested for 'fastness' on a slave jig on a slave rifle.

You are game to try but there are many pitfalls. To be honest, I don't mind putting the 'triers' work right. But just so loing as that ain't knackered the parts that you cannot replace. And the MOST important piece is the centre spindle. And that is in the very centre of the bit you're messin' with!

Incidentally, you say it looks perfect but it ain't because the cement/balsam is breaking down. You can see this by the yellow/brown ring around the edge of the rear ocular lens