Koishikawa Arsenal (Tokyo) Type 30 Bayonet, Japan

Hello Edged Weapons! I have a few pieces in my collection, but this one has always facinated me because it's quite different from most Tokyo/Kokura blades.

Recently, I found a reference to "prototype" bayonets, from very early in the Tokyo Arsenal production.

"Prototype" Characteristics:
- Serial Number on Cross-guard
- "M" Stamped on pommel
- "99" or other number, carved into grip
Link:
Osaka

This is not a trainer bayonet, and does mount to my bring-back WWII Arisaka rifle.

What do you all think?

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ipgfhy1c-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tkfewcqj-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...gsar0nv5-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...mpnyzbve-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...95u86re1-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ihsni2ny-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...txcicwyu-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...6oqkxskw-1.jpg


Copper scabbard (no serial)...???
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...wtdiom1b-1.jpg

I think that's a very nice looking example. Yes, It's got a bit of ugly in spots, but it's a good clean example and they aren't making them any more. It's gotten bad enough that I've had jobs repairing those that have no grip scales and then people have one...nice walnut grip scales.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I think that's a very nice looking example. Yes, It's got a bit of ugly in spots, but it's a good clean example and they aren't making them any more. It's gotten bad enough that I've had jobs repairing those that have no grip scales and then people have one...nice walnut grip scales.

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Do you concur that it's a "prototype," from very early Tokyo production?

Perhaps. What I do think is it's a nice early one from when they weren't cutting corners. Prototype? Maybe, the numbers on the slab are different.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Perhaps. What I do think is it's a nice early one from when they weren't cutting corners. Prototype? Maybe, the numbers on the slab are different.

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The bayonet won't fully seat into the scabbard. Sticks-out about an inch (see pic #5).
Is this a common issue, and should I try to remove whatever obstruction, or just leave it and live with it?

No, it's not a common thing. Can you determine what's down there? Is it just a cleaning cloth or piece of something soft? It should go all the way in, those scabbards were interchangeable as far as I know so anything would fit anything. There's no reason for it not to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

No, it's not a common thing. Can you determine what's down there? Is it just a cleaning cloth or piece of something soft? It should go all the way in, those scabbards were interchangeable as far as I know so anything would fit anything. There's no reason for it not to.

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I took a look in there, and didn't see anything obvious. Also tried lightly taping-out whatever might be in there.
Must be either years of packed dirt/lint, or something that blends in with the internal scabbard liner, which I can't see.
Thought about making a small hook out of a wire hanger, and trying to scrape out the obstruction, but I'm scared of damaging the scabbard liner.
The liner looks like cork/soft wood, or perhaps leather.


Found some more references to "trial/prototype" bayonets, from early in the Tokyo series.
Very exciting stuff. I may need to purchase some bayonet books.
My bayo only has a 3-digit serial#.

"You will find in both Larry Johnson's book "Japanese Bayonets" and Ray LaBar's book "Bayonets of Japan" the two best sources for info and illustrations on the the many variations of the Type 30 family of bayonets.
All early Type 30 bayonets were made at Tokyo Arsenal in the "A" configuration ( rounded bird head pommel, hook crossguard, contoured wrap around grips retained by screws and washers, bright fullered blade ).
1) Initial test / pre-production run had a large "M" stamped on the pommel, with or without the arsenal logo ( stacked cannonballs ) on the blade, these have a 3 to 4 digit long serial number stamped on the right side of the crossguard."

fascinated with very early type 30 bayonets...


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I've done the coat hook thing before and also a 223 cleaning brush on a rod. Make sure you turn to the right so it stays tight when trying to fish. The coat hook needs to be the smallest hook you can engineer. Tiny. It could also be part of the liner come adrift. You can take out the mouth of the scabbard? Can you slip out the liners also? Can you shine a small strong flashlight down inside to see what's there?