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I recently purchased my my first Enfield No4 Mk1 with plans to restore it but unfortunately the barrel has been cut down. The rifle has matching serial numbers and I am torn on replacing the barrel or leaving as is with the matching serials. Opinions please?
You can't re-build it to military spec with a cut down barrel. It's one or the other. Maybe keep it for fun and get something already re-built or as issue...they're around...
Agreed. But there is a way to keep the sporterized barrel and still create something that is a compromise (I hate compromises, but sometimes you have little choice).Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
Typically the cut-down barrel has lost about 1-1/2 inches off the end.
1) Find a muzzle compensator for a .22 that is about 2-1/4 inches long that's ~.70 diameter. (I have one exactly this size)
2) Thread the outer nose of the barrel for the muzzle compensator. (You will probably need a gunsmith to do this. Typically the people who cut down the barrel left about 1/2 inch between the muzzle and the forward sight -- just enough to thread)
3) Counter-bore the tip/muzzle of the compensator to about .35 to accommodate a .303 bullet (its an easy DIY job, helps to have a drill press and vice)
4) Mount the compensator on the nose of the barrel (apply cold bluing if you want it black)
You will never be able to put a bayonet on it, but the gun will have a new, somewhat similar "nose" and certainly your modifications will be a conversation piece. It's not perfect, certainly not authentic, but you do retain the original barrel, and the compensator is functional too. It's a compromise, therefore never fully satisfactory -- such are the dilemmas of life in an imperfect world.
Of course, the other retention option is to leave the muzzle just the way it is, which will never have the same look of a real No.4 MkI.
Yea im kind of leaning toward leaving it the way it is and finding an UN cut Enfield. I located a barrel for $40 but from Ive read its hard to find a gunsmith that can properly mount an Enfield barrel.
All depending on what you've got to start with of course, you can make a difficult, easy, expensive or cheap project.......... If you're going to do the seaspriter thing in thread 3 and the remainder of the barrel is good (it's criminal the way they just chomp-off these otherwise end of perfectly serviceable barrels.....), why not just get a length of old damaged/shot-out/otherwise unserviceable No4 muzzle. Machine back and reduce the barrel diameter of the sporterised barrel to a point EXACTLY in line with the rear of the foresight block band lugs so that it is now stepped downwards. Now machine the 'new' section of muzzle to make it the exact length. Now bore into the muzzle end so that it is a a) larger internal dia than original b) a bullet will pass through without touching and c) will aesthetically look unnoticeable.
Bore the rear so that the new section will be a nice tight fit over the old stepped original sporterised barrel. Sweat together. If you are any good on the lathe, the joint line will be invisible. Assemble the foresight block band and protector and using a sheet of glass as for aligning a new barrel and a small blow torch gently heat the new muzzle end to find its own exact upright/square.
That's the nearest you'll get to how it was. Time, 1 hour, looks good, is the correct length, weight and hopefully similar original accuracy.
On the other hand, you could just machine up a new muzzle end complete with bayonet lugs orjust turn down down the sporty barrel to No5 spec
Great idea. That's why we have experts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Captain Laidler, I have a sporterized barrel in good condition. But it has urked me for a year, and have not taken action on any solution yet, being somewhat unsettled with the "muzzle compensator solution."
After reading your post, I attempted to remove the foresight block, first knocking out the retaining pin with a drift pin (came out a few swift knocks from the left side).
But the foresight band is frozen on the lugs and I don't want to bugger the sight or the fittings.
Does the band break free with a few swift hammer knocks against a wooden block?
Or does it need penetrating oil (there's no observable rust)?
Or do I need to heat it to expand it out from the barrel/lugs?
Or does it need a hydraulic press to push it off the lugs?
Thanks.
It will(?) be sweated on. You could easily just do the same but machine the shouldered step from part way along the block band foresight lugs. Then the join is invisible. But we don't know the extent of the need in Harveys case
Those are all great ideas guys but unfortunately I am just getting into the restoration process and don't have any of the know how or equipment to complete those tasks just yet. So I would have to seek out a gunsmith for any modifications. My rifle has a parker hale sight mounted on the barrel so it would have to be removed prior to working on a barrel as well. I guess the cost/value debate for me is to leave the rifle as is with matching serials or change the barrel and restore to military form and not have matching serials.
I'd leave it and seek an original condition rifle. It'll be cheaper.
Here's what worked (after knocking out the Retaining Pin):Quote:
Originally Posted by Seaspriter
1) soaked the Foresight Block Band in Penetrating Oil for a day
2) knocked off the FBB with hammer whacks on a wood pin all around the band, and it worked free, millimeter by millimeter.
Cause: Rust on the barrel lugs and FBB lug slots -- although there was no visible rust on the barrel or FBB (or anywhere else on the gun).
This is probably standard procedure for all the experts; I learned something -- rust can lurk in invisible places but be absent on adjacent observable surfaces. Tricky stuff that rust! Like some kind of disease.