Pattern 14 Mk1* Eddystone - restored

My first British rifle. Have tried to keep my collection focused on WW1&2 U.S. 30-06 and 8mm mauser battle rifles, but my "opportunistic" collecting tendencies "read frugal" often leads me to pick up incomplete or "bubbaed" rifles that I can restore to their military configurations.

My gunsmith buddy picked up this all matching barreled action and stock at a gun show for $100. At least what is left of the metal is matching. Bubba apparently lost interest in the middle of sporterizing it. The handguards and bands were missing, as was approximately 3" of the barrel along with the front sight, and the triggerguard was cut and welded into a "flat" shape.

My buddy let me have it for what he had in it and Gun Parts supplied the handguards, bands, swivels, front sight, and a new triggerguard for approximately $125. Also had to fabricate a coil spring for the ejector as the old spring was dead. My friend then helped me fabricate a "false muzzle" approximately 3" in length from a bored out section of m1917 barrel to return the barrel to proper length and to provide the necessary dovetail for the front sight assembly. We then scrubbed the US stampings and reblued the restored barrel. All parts seem to be Eddystone except for the Remington front sight assembly Gun Parts sent me. The stock is an Eddystone "fatboy". Serial number, 672xxx seems to be above the upper range reported by Stratton, so must be a really late one. Looks like it has been through the Weedon Repair protocol as the volley sights are missing and there are a couple of neat arsenal repairs to the stock.

Test firing revealed that it is going to be quite accurate, even with the "counterbore from Hell". Test firing also revealed a tendency to "pierce" primers. I think the headspace may be a bit generous as the primers are also backing out a bit. I reduced this tendency by running my brass through an 8mm mauser neck sizer and then sizing only about 2/3rds of the neck with my .303 sizer. Creates a "bulge" at the neck shoulder juncture that seems to hold the case against the bolt face more consistently. Isn't 100% effective so if anyone else has an idea let me know. The load I've been using is Speer 150 gr. spitzer powered by 42 gr. of 4064. I also have a stronger Wolff striker spring ordered.

I have to say that is a impressive amount of effort to restore that one rifle. A trick I have heard works for the .303 Brass especially in situations like yours is to place a o-ring around the case at the rim. This forces the case to size on the neck instead of on the rim.

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Originally Posted by Eaglelord17

I have to say that is a impressive amount of effort to restore that one rifle. A trick I have heard works for the .303 Brass especially in situations like yours is to place a o-ring around the case at the rim. This forces the case to size on the neck instead of on the rim.

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So to be sure I'm understanding you? Put an O ring around the case just above the rim before resizing? This is preventing full length sizing - neck sizing only?

When you have a round (commercial or first time shooting it) put a o-ring at the bottom of the case at the rim. Then you fire the round. This will cause the round to size at the neck so you only need to neck size the case (might help with your problem). I personally have never done it (only have one rifle in .303 in the moment and it likely won't be shot too much for the foreseeable future) but those that do, seem to swear by it.

Wow, end product looks great. Thanks for sharing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eaglelord17

When you have a round (commercial or first time shooting it) put a o-ring at the bottom of the case at the rim. Then you fire the round. This will cause the round to size at the neck so you only need to neck size the case (might help with your problem). I personally have never done it (only have one rifle in .303 in the moment and it likely won't be shot too much for the foreseeable future) but those that do, seem to swear by it.

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Now I understand - makes sense - I'll give it a try

Thanks
Best regards
Marty

Mtoms, Looks good! How did you attach the false muzzle? Salt flat

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Originally Posted by Salt Flat

Mtoms, Looks good! How did you attach the false muzzle? Salt flat

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Male threads cut on the barrel - corresponding female threads on the false muzzle. The trick was threading the muzzle so that it indexed with the front sight dovetail aligned with the rear sight. First try it slightly over indexed - a light preening applied to the face of the muzzle allowed a slight under index that tightened snugly at index. Red loctite was also applied to the threads.

My friend gets all the credit for the workmanship. He is a retired history professor who sportered many dozens of mausers into high quality hunting rifles over the years. He has accumulated a myriad of military surplus parts over the years. So in a strange twist of fate he now finds himself enjoying restoration projects and assisting aspiring collectors like myself restore the same rifles he dismembered in his former life. He only sporters previously "bubbaed" rifles today. He almost never will accept payment - I have to find creative ways of repaying him - like the extra m1917 handguard I bought for him to complete his Winchester m1917 restoration. Being a history professor he also can communicate a wealth of history regarding these old weapons.

How much does the firing pin protrude from the bolt face? I have heard that the p-14s had a different firing pin tip diameter than the 1917s, so maybe that is where the problem lies. Is the firing pin an eddystone?
john

Yes it is an Eddystone. It is significantly smaller in diameter than my m1917. This could be part of the issue. I wonder if the "sharper" p14 fp is designed for berdan primers whereas the blunter m1917 is optimal for boxer primers?
Of course I'm loading the p14 with boxer primed cartridges. But still the fact my primers are backing out slightly upon firing - points to excessive headspace.

Here is a shot of the fp protrusion on the p14 bolt
Attachment 62316