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I picked up a high wood stock out of a barrel of old stocks, It looked nice but when I put my action in it sits too deep, recoil block is tight and works well in old stock, the only problem is when installing hand guard the metal lip is to high, You can put it in if you pick the action up about 1/16 of an inch, barrel is clear of the channel,,will it hurt to have the action suspended between the block and the hand guard ?
Look for the following;
1. has the stock been modified / reworked?
2. is it warped?
3. is it a GI stock / maker marked in slingwell?
4. what action are you using?
5. is it dryed out?
These may be simple questions and you may have already checked, but some think that everything fits automatically. That's why we are here!!!
I hope this helps. GK
sharpshooter; I cannot understand what is happening from your description. Here's what is supposed to happen; you put the action in the stock, hanging it on the recoil plate which should be tight. Now the barrel is well above the barrel channel. Holding the stock horizontal with one hand, smack the buttplate with the other and the action should settle with each jolt until you hear/feel a 'clunk' and it's done. At this point the barrel should be close to the barrel channel but still not touching it. Now you should be able to put the hand guard on and slide the barrel band back into engagement without pushing the barrel up or down. So the barrel is touching only the barrel clamp in the band and the hand guard should be secure although it can have some play. Anything that happens other than this is wrong, but you can get away with the barrel just falling into the barrel channel, then the clamp holds it up. This is not great but its okay. What's not okay is when you have to push the barrel down to get the band over the snout of the stock.
You could need to try more recoil plates to get the action to hang properly on it. The late recoil plate is the best one for this purpose if you're going to shoot it. If you're not going to shoot it, it doesn't make any difference as long as you don't have to force the band into position by pushing down on the barrel.
I was up at a pawn/gun shop in North Arkansas last weekend, He had several barrels of old gun stocks with a sign that said ur choice $30. I found an I cut high wood stock with a "ROCK OLA" marked recoil plate, "RMC" in the sling well and I think correct butt plate and He gave a 2 rivet RMC marked top piece to go with it As my Rock-ola sits in Winchester wood I bought it. even if its fake it was cheap ,,,action fits into it perfect except where the metal lip on the top wood hand guard should slide into the action,,they are the same height,,you have to lift the barrel a 1/16 to get it in or put it in at an angle but you still lift it when you bring it down flush..I have tried 3 recoil plates and 2 different top wood and they all fit the same.. I guess I could just bend the metal lip down a little on the top wood but did not wish to break the 2 rivets. the barrel sits in the channel about where it should,,the mag well looks about right,,just the top wood dont fit
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...20v20007-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...20v20009-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...20v20006-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...20v20001-1.jpg
Okay, so you can't get the hand guard to fit where it locks to the receiver. The sheet-metal tab is adjustable by bending. Previously is was flared up to fit a certain carbine. Now you have to de-flare it to fit yours. At least, that's what I think after seeing the pics. You want to use a tool on the tab without teeth so you don't scratch/tear up the soft tab. You could try peening it from underneath - turn it over, rest the tab on a hard edge and lightly straighten the flare with a ball-peen hammer
Thats what I wanted to know,,thank you sir
One last question,,That handguard was given to me ,,Its marked RMC inside and pretty well wore but its a different kind of wood,,the Gentleman that gave it to me said it was Cherry,,can you tell from the pictures,,
Looks like walnut to me.
Cherry wood is not red. It can be stained any color. I think I've heard that story before and am not sure about it. Looks like an early Walnut guard to me - they were using figured Walnut in the early days of production.
thank you all again for the information, as I said I gave 30 bucks for the stock and the guy just gave me the top wood,,it is the style of the early one's with the deep groove,,they were past grungy when I got them but I used the technique I saw I think on CMP and they cleaned right up with alot of elbow grease, I think they are real,,but hey ,,if not the price was right