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Hi Guys,
I've got a 1953 #4 MK1/2 (F) sporter that I've had for years. It's not too badly hacked on, but the forearm, forward hg and nose cap are missing (typical '50s/'60s Bubba sport job). I'd like to return it to it's as issued condition. It's my understanding that the MK1/2s are a little different that other Enfield variants and parts can be harder to locate. I haven't really started looking for sources, I thought I ask you all first. What say yee? PAX
The foreend will be different, it should come with the nut and escutcheon for the tie bolt already in. I have plenty of examples of the tie bolt here.
What's the barrel like? The Mk 2 fore-end should be easy to replace and/or as easy to modify a Mk1 to suit the upgraded Mk2/1. Indeed, the Mk1/2's were converted using modified Mk1 fore-ends. A doddle I'd say!
Peter L, I seem to be seeing some mk 1/2s were converted mk1 forends, some 1/2s and 1/3s seem to have mk2 new wood, or is that likely to be a armourer's "update"? In fact I'd almost say Ive seen more 1/2s and 1/3s with new mk2 wood than conversions.
Briefly, to convert a mk1 forend to a mk2 you remove the tie piece and tie bar at the rear. make up a piece of wood to fit that remaining slot out of a hard low oil wood like English oak and epoxy that in. next Using a router cut out the a rear of the tie bracket that is visible on the outside each side and put in inserts. Drill these out for the tie screw 1/8th inch? and use another drill to countersink for the tie bolt head and finally cut through the rear pad to make space for the trigger hanger.
I have some pics of the one I did somewhere if you want to see them but there are on line examples that might look more "genuine".
The hardest part will be getting colour matches.
---------- Post added at 12:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:16 PM ----------
Peter, you are of course highly skilled with decades of practice. :beerchug:
On the other hand SSJ (thread 4) I'd say that I have seen FAR more Mk1/2's and 1/3's with converted fore-ends than with Mk2 fore-ends. The idea of the conversion was that you would modify everything where possible to avoid waste. Trigger guards are another example.
I wouldn't use epoxy on wood, just the correct wood glue. And here's a tip if you are going to upgrade a Mk1 fore-end to Mk2 spec. Wood patch one side of the tie bolt patch at a time. Use the unfinished side to act as a drill guide to go through the finished side. THEN complete the unfinished side patch and use the finished side as a drill guide. That way the new hole for the tie bolt will always follow the exact line of the old tie plate rivet and not wander off course while on its long journey through the rear of the fore-end.
Ah interesting on the converting.
"the unfinished side to act as a drill guide" which is what I did, forgot about that.