Sighting in the Garand, tips and targets?

I know between the search function and Google I can find the answer, but sometimes there's a thing as TOO MUCH information, and of course quality.


I've owned a Garand for years now, but never truly took the time to dial it in and become proficient with it, despite it being my favorite rifle.

I'll be using Greek HXP in organized lots.

I've got a couple of questions.

1. What is the correct distance for the rifle to be sighted in? I've seen 25 and 50 yards.

2. What is a good target for sighting in the Garand?

3. How do you properly use the lock at sights? The late/post war sights are easy enough, but I don't feel I'm operating my lockbar sights correctly.

4. Things to check for to get maximum accuracy without modifications such as bedding, NM sights, etc.?

I'm not looking to make her a match shooter, I just want to learn to operate her proficiently and accurately.

25 yards simulates a 200-yard battle sight zero if you aim at the bottom of the black bull at 6:00 o'clock (make a pumpkin on a fence post). Any target will do. The lock bar is just that, simply a way to keep the sight from loosening after you get your setting. Shoot 3-shot groups and move the center of the group with the rear sight until you get a nice tight cluster at the edge of the black at 6:00 o'clock. The most important thing to check is that the gas cylinder is tight and does not move the sight around.

Target you may find usefull

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Originally Posted by garrettbragg12

I know between the search function and Google I can find the answer, but sometimes there's a thing as TOO MUCH information, and of course quality.


I've owned a Garand for years now, but never truly took the time to dial it in and become proficient with it, despite it being my favorite rifle.

I'll be using Greek HXP in organized lots.

I've got a couple of questions.

1. What is the correct distance for the rifle to be sighted in? I've seen 25 and 50 yards.
Battle Sight Zero for the M1 in WW2 was 250yds.

2. What is a good target for sighting in the Garand?
The NRA SR target, or the repair center (SR-1) will give you a sight picture at 200 yds where the aiming black and the front sight blade appear to be the same width. This provides an ideal index of deflection.

3. How do you properly use the lock at sights? The late/post war sights are easy enough, but I don't feel I'm operating my lockbar sights correctly.
Unless you have a desire to retain the lock bar sights, the post war sights are much better and easier to deal with. If you are determined to use them. Get a no wind zero at 200 yds., then paint a line that you can see from behind the rifle across the edge of the windage knob and onto the receiver. Paint another line vertically from the sight base onto the receiver. This allows you to easily return to your no wind zero by aligning the paint lines. Aligning the knob mark is easy enough, and if you are a full turn away from zero, it will be immediately apparent as the base to receiver line will be out of register.
On the elevation side, once you have your zero, count down the number of clicks and write this number on a piece of tape or target paster affixed to the receiver in front of the knob.

4. Things to check for to get maximum accuracy without modifications such as bedding, NM sights, etc.?
Read these two posts. Even if you don't perform the trigger work, the part about the trunnions being round and having good clamping pressure is vital to making a M1 shoot well. No clamping pressure = a bolt gun with loose stock screws.
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=37215&page=1
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=37213

I'm not looking to make her a match shooter, I just want to learn to operate her proficiently and accurately.

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Report back if you apply this information and how it worked for you.

Guys thank you a ton for your response! I read each and every one and took note! Hoping to get to the range next week!

Went and saw hacksaw ridge tonight. Makes me love the M1 even more.

That's what seems to dive the prices of these rifles up. Every time a real well done movie comes out that features a particular firearm, the prices seem to jump for a bit...

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

That's what seems to dive the prices of these rifles up. Every time a real well done movie comes out that features a particular firearm, the prices seem to jump for a bit...

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I noticed that especially with tankers helmets when fury came out. I had been looking for one for awhile and boy did I make a mistake waiting so long. Once fury came out, they were out of my league! I think BOB did a good job of gaining interest in milsurps!

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Originally Posted by garrettbragg12

I think BOB did a good job of gaining interest

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That and Saving Pvt Ryan...both drove M1 prices it seemed.