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I had disassembled my No4 Mkii to apply some much needed BLO to the wood. I tightened the tie screw (the one at the very end of the fore stock) until it stuck out ever so slightly on the right side (from the shooters perspective). Is this too much or should I tighten it further?
Your problem is that the screw head and nut have been slowly crushing their seatings in the fore-end and as a result the threaded shank is now protruding too far. Next, you'll be asking what you can do about it? Are you any good at a) simple woodwork and b) following instructions to the letter?
I am curious what is required but is having it stick out a detriment other than aesthetics?
Yes because it will pull through eventually and then you'll be in a bigger xxxx. It's called a stitch in time, saves nine
As long as it's simple woodworking. I am willing to follow the instructions to the "T"
Hold on, I'll be back tomorrow. I'm sure others will be interested too.
Back later....... There are 3x methods you can use.
1) The first is to get two of the COLLAR, backsight leaf used on the Mk3 and 4 fabricated backsights. Put one of these into each side and then insert the screw and nut. This a total and absolute bodge or bubba job. Or you can do the job properly that will last for ever.
2) See how deep the hole is in each side using a screwdriver blade. With the next-size-up drill, drill down into the hole, taking it just a gnats knacker deeper that it is. This ensures that the wood in the hole is now new/fresh and unbroken/split/bruised wood. Now make yourself a suitably sized hardwood dowel - BUT NOT OAK - Make a flat on one or two sides, glue it and tap it in place and leave to dry. BUT ONLY DO ONE SIDE.
When it's dry and firmly glued in place, cut and make good. From the OTHER side, drill down using the unpatched side hole as a guide and drill through the patch with a 4mm/0.15" drill. It should come out through the centre of your new patch. Now patch the other side and the next day, repeat the process using the new hole as the guide. Get it? This ensures that the screw holes align with each other. All you need to do now is to use the hole as a pilot, drill down until the bolt head and nut are below the surface. Screw up and that's it although you might need to adjust the depth of your counter-bore to suit the length of the bolt and thickness of the fore-end at that point. We had a special wood cutting drill with a square end to drill the recess but who'd really care if you used a normal engineers drill?
3) If you are blessed with a small lathe you could save yourself a bit of time by boring down into the holes as above but turning the new oversize hardwood inserts in the lathe, keeping them a nice tight fit in the fore-end. Then bore through .015" centrally using the drill in the tailstock. Make two small flats on the new inserts (for the glue to spread), tap home and next day use the already centrally bored holes to recess for the screw head and nut.
Done zillions of them. The screw has only got to be nipped up and not tightened as in Boeing wheel nuts! Hey, if you appreciate this litle UK type REME workshop repair give me a little thanks in the tick box!
Thank you sir! I will attempt number 2! I am tempted to find a fore end to play with to instill some confidence first.
No need to use a spare fore-end Mr Tickle, just use an old piece of wood. Drill a hole through and then a drill a deeper oversize hole - and practice on that. Same meat, different gravy. But when you use method 2, remember to do one side at a time so that the shaft hole and recess hole for the heads all align fully.
Very useful info! Thank you for posting