Going to field strip my M1 Garand for the first time. Advice? Tips? Supplies?

Dear Milsurps Forum,

I've purchased a Garand about a year ago and am ready to do my first full cleaning.

I've only shot it twice and after about 70 rounds through it I found that the bolt was not closing properly (see photos - proper vs improper). This happens even when I use snap caps and I have to push it a bit to get it closed most the time. I'm hoping a good cleaning will fix this (if there is something more to it then please let me know). At the range the action has no trouble cycling the next round into the chamber, it just won't close all the way. I'm terrified that closing it the rest of the way will cause a (slam fire?) and cut my hand open (I've read about this but I may be mistaken if it can happen in this situation).

I watched the Brownells Inc. M1 Garand Firearm Maintenance series on YouTube to prepare for the cleaning. Some general questions about cleaning tool/methods:

I have G96 brand complete gun treatment (Cleans, lubricates, protects). Will that be good enough for a cleaner or should I purchase somethings like Hoppe's No. 9 and/or Breakfree CLP. Also TCE Degreaser Aerosol was an extra option. Thoughts?

For lube I'm going to use Lubripate 130-A Mil Spec Grease. good? Just going off what I saw in the video I watched, any better recommendations let me know.

I'm going to use a snake instead of bore rod/patches.

Should I be removing the gas plug for cleaning? If so, can I use any screwdriver or should I invest in a specific gas cylinder lock screw wrench? How tight do I need to screw it back on afterwards?

Sorry for the long post with too many basic questions. It's my first time disassembling and cleaning a semi-automatic firearm and I don't want to do something stupid.

Thank you

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

I have G96 brand complete gun treatment (Cleans, lubricates, protects). Will that be good enough for a cleaner or should I purchase somethings like Hoppe's No. 9 and/or Breakfree CLP. Also TCE Degreaser Aerosol was an extra option. Thoughts?
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Get one of the foaming bore cleaners, they are very effective for removing copper fouling from GI broached bores.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

For lube I'm going to use Lubripate 130-A Mil Spec Grease. good? Just going off what I saw in the video I watched, any better recommendations let me know.
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Back in the day when everyone shot the M1 and M14 in High Power, Plastilube was the grease of choice. It won't melt in the summer, and it won't get stiff in the winter. Champions Choice Shooter Supply has it. Get one of those little flux brushes used for applying soldering flux at Lowe's. They are the perfect applicator for grease on the M1.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

I'm going to use a snake instead of bore rod/patches. Attachment 91786Attachment 91785

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I would get a quality cleaning rod like the Dewey 25" model made specifically for the M1/M14. Used wound core bronze brushes and cotton flannel patches on a jag. And use a cleaning rod guide. More M1 barrels have been ruined by enthusiastic use of a 3 piece cleaning rod than everything else put together. Clean the rifle inverted in a cradle so the solvent does not have the chance to run down into the bedding.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

Should I be removing the gas plug for cleaning? If so, can I use any screwdriver or should I invest in a specific gas cylinder lock screw wrench? How tight do I need to screw it back on afterwards?Attachment 91786Attachment 91785

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Get a USGI M10 combo tool. In addition to properly fitting the gas plug, it make bolt disassembly easy, whether the bolt is in or out of the rifle. A 6 inch section of cleaning rod thru the center hole will provide the proper degree of torque.

On your bolt closing issue. You are not clear if the bolt needs a nudge when closing on an empty chamber, or only when loading a cartridge or snap cap. The bolt should close fully when eased forward on an empty chamber. When there is a cartridge or snap cap being chambered, the round is pushed forward by the bolt and the extractor has to snap over the rim as the bolt closes. If you are easing it closed, then yes it will require a nudge to get it to fully close. Standard procedure when single loading a live round is to insert the cartridge into the chamber and ease the bolt forward to the halfway point and release to fully close under spring pressure. Do not release the bolt from the fully retracted position unless feeding from the 8 round clip.

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I can't add much to what no4mk1t has told you above...in fact, probably nothing.
But when breaking mine down, I use this guide and it is fantastic: Disassemble the M1 Garand
Then, they have another great guide on greasing your Garand: Greasing the M1 Garand

Links for stuff mentioned above.

Plastilube. This one jar is a lifetime supply. Use sparingly, a thin film is sufficient.
Champion's Choice

M1 cleaning rod guide. Machined to fit over muzzle.
Champion's Choice

Dewey 25" cleaning rod.
Champion's Choice

M10 combo tool.
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When firing the M1 rifle in competition from 1958 until about 1965 I never had occasion to disassemble the trigger housing group. Of course crawling through mud or in extremely dusty conditions might make it necessary to disassemble. I recall only once when it was necessary to disassemble the bolt. That was when the extractor broke. Breaking the rifle down into the three major groups was seldom done as we were concerned about the zero changing when this was done. I did a lot of firing with the M1 but legged out to get my Distinguished Rifleman badge with the M14 n 1967.

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Originally Posted by no4mk1t

On your bolt closing issue. You are not clear if the bolt needs a nudge when closing on an empty chamber, or only when loading a cartridge or snap cap. The bolt should close fully when eased forward on an empty chamber. When there is a cartridge or snap cap being chambered, the round is pushed forward by the bolt and the extractor has to snap over the rim as the bolt closes. If you are easing it closed, then yes it will require a nudge to get it to fully close. Standard procedure when single loading a live round is to insert the cartridge into the chamber and ease the bolt forward to the halfway point and release to fully close under spring pressure. Do not release the bolt from the fully retracted position unless feeding from the 8 round clip.

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Hi, can I just confirm that if I'm shooting a full EN BLOC clip (8) and half way through the bolt does not close on the round (second photo), am I safe to nudge it forward from the position it is in?
It always closes fully when empty and on the first round as well. Just sometimes a few rounds into shooting the action will not close.

Also, were any of the products I mentioned particularly bad? I'm thinking I should just order them from a that one place (Brownells) so I can get everything at once and get this cleaning done. I also won't have to deal with finding places that will ship to Canada. Then I can just adjust my inventory when I find something works/doesn't work. If anything seems like a mistake to purchase then I'll find a way to source your recommendations.

Thank you

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Originally Posted by Herschel

I never had occasion to disassemble the trigger housing group

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I won't be disassembling it to that point. Just enough to clean/lube it.
Here is a video that I will try to replicate:
M1 Garand Firearm Maintenance: Part 1 Disassembly - YouTube.

Yes, you can bump the op rod to close the bolt.
It sounds like the op rod spring is weak then, or the rifle has old gummy grease slowing the action down. I always recommend that peeps replace the spring when they acquire an M1 from the CMP or other sources. The action will cycle snappier, and the recoil impulse will be slightly softer. Be sure to grease it when you install it.

None of the products you mentioned are bad, I just named what we used back in my rifle team days.

Do not be afraid to detail strip the M1 and give it a thorough cleaning and lubrication. It is not rocket science. The trigger group is pretty simple to disassemble reassemble, you just need a few pics and a little instruction. Holler if you want that. I probably already have the pics from posts done in the past.

Thanks a man. I think I'll give it a cleaning and then take it to the range. If it still happens I'll look into replacing the spring. Apparently this thing sat in a safe of a private owner for 20 years before I bought it. Garands are hard to come by up here. I'll message you if I have any problems but I'm feeling a lot more confident than when I got it and was too afraid to take it apart.

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Originally Posted by AaronGee

Garands are hard to come by up here.

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Take a look on the EE at CanadianGunNutz then. You'll find them by the dozen. The spring you seek is the operating rod spring. That's going to be harder to find, and don't get a Wolfe extra strength spring. Get an original one if possible and a new one. Otherwise you're buying what you have, a worn out weak spring.

I agree with browningautorifle.
The op rod spring should be replaced about every 2000 rounds. I have the USGI spec somewhere on what the free OAL should be of a serviceable spring. I'll have to hunt it up.

I have torn down M1's before where the spring came out in 3 pieces, yet the owner was still shooting the rifle and reported no issues.
Remember that the heel of the receiver stops the bolts reward travel. As the spring gets weaker, the receiver takes a bigger hit with each shot.

You can get a newly made, USGI spec spring here. I talked to Clint McKee, the owner of Fulton Armory at Camp Perry, and he tracked down the original contractor and had them make him new springs to the USGI WW2 print. For only $9, every M1 owner should have a few spares. Surely there's a way to get them to Canada.

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There are several of us here that are very knowledgeable on the M1 and can help with repair, tuning, and shooting issues. All you have to do is ask.