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Finally found a NOS flash hider to replace the eyesore reproduction one on an otherwise pretty nice 1945. Having searched previous posts I think I have removal covered.
Is there a spec for pin hole size / spacing. Is it feasible to utilize the pin slots already on the barrel or am I dreaming?
Ill try throwing more chum in the water and see if I get a bite.
measurements
Four No 5s measured @ center to center on pin holes .510 to .513
Reproduction flash hider ID .598
NOS flash hider ID .593
barrel OD .593
Repro pins do not appear to be tapered.
Any suggestions on how to proceed?
I don't think you'll be able to match up the original pin grooves so I wouldn't try. I'd sweat it on or tap fit and make sure it's TDC, then cross drill for straight taper pins and stake the ends after you have them in. Don't use roll pins. You might want pins that were a bit better, like drill bits...the shanks...
A bight at last!
Should I try some emery cloth to take the OD of the barrel down a smidge? I fear otherwise the TDC adjustment may be impossible without marring something.
You could silver solder it on too. Either way, a little heat on the flash hider will make it easier to press on.
No it won't. Even when tight it won't be impossible...unless it just doesn't go on. You'll know right away. Then you'll have to make the muzzle small enough but not loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY
Silver solder...I don't think I'd do that...
I was waiting for Peter or a couple of the others that did these every day to come on. Thought they would. I've done a few, not like they have.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY
I thought that as well. previous posts mentioned the subject had been covered in detail but I never found the detailed posts referenced in the more recent discussions.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
Think you have me pointed in the right direction. Then I have to deal with trying to come up with a finish that will not look like a blaze orange muzzle cap on a toy gun.
I didn't come on because all of our new F/E's came drilled/reamed and the fit on a barrel could be anything from a bit loose to a bit tight so we'd select and/or hand fit fit as necessary. Alignment was on a surface plate (we had an old adapted lathe bed for barrel stuff). The holes were always pretty close but never exact but we'd tweak them with a reamer and then pin them. NEVER used anything more that soft solder. Jim is right, we did plenty of them, usually for looseness and broken foresight protectors. There was a unit and field workshop repair for broken protector ears by welding a square type split spring lock washer in place. An easy fix but at Base workshops, they all had to leave like new
Some progress. Plumbers emery cloth + patience + Tetra Lube = perfect fit.
Very tight but adjustable with a little non marring mechanical advantage.
It looks better in the white than the cast repro.
That's right...and it WILL look better...because you also know it's right.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY