Need help ID'ing my new No. 4 MK1

Good Morning All,

I recently picked up this No.4MK1 at my LGS. It is my first experience with an Enfield, so was trying to learn when I was looking it over. Wrist is stamped M/4- and 1943 but the original penciled SN can barely been seen (AC7356) Bolt handle stamp is non matching. Receiver penciling is faint for No4MK1 and then the billboard import marks with new SN.

I have added some pics with additional id markings of parts that I can find. I am new to Enfields and am actively researching stampings but cannot find where my new toy fits in by its marks. SN does not match the normal format I am finding in files (saw some notes that this MAY be a BSA due to the letter prefix and 4 digit SN). Is my assumption correct of BSA?? Also having difficulty making out the barrel stampings. The B and 1 are easy, but the side stamps are difficult to interpret.

LGS had it priced at $399. The safety would not operate correctly due to a bent bolt spring, had no front swivel and the swivel band screw was a bubba replacement. I talked him down to $300 plus tax out the door. I ordered a bolt spring, swivel, swivel screw and sling from APEX to fix the safety issue get her handling a little better. Have not fired yet, but anxiously awaiting to.

Before firing just have the fit of the bolt and the headspace checked.

It has a bolt from an American rifle (Savage) fitted into a British (BSA) manufactured rifle.


Bolts are not interchangeable between rifles without 'fitting' (fitting as in work needed - not just as in 'pushing it in')

There is a long post by Peter Laidler in the forum 'library' explaining how to check the fit and rectify if needed)

Heed #2's advice get a competent gunsmith familiar with this line of actions to check it a mis-matched bolt is one of the "Let's get it checked"
Its a must for any weapon you buy second hand a trip for a check over the only time I never did it the 303 was a dud with a great divot in the chamber.

The swivel I'm thinking you mean as in the one up by the front band? You know there isn't one there? There's one in the center band and butt...you have what it came with. Looks like a well handled rifle, after a check out should give good shooting service. How's the barrel inside...good? Two groove or more?

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

The swivel I'm thinking you mean as in the one up by the front band? You know there isn't one there? There's one in the center band and butt...you have what it came with. Looks like a well handled rifle, after a check out should give good shooting service. How's the barrel inside...good? Two groove or more?

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Thanks for all the reminders about headspace. Have not had it checked yet (or fired it). The swivel on the center band is the one I added...along with a new screw and sling. When I bought it, it had no swivel, a boogered up oddball screw, no sling and a bent spring on the safety.
APEX filled my needs at a reasonable price.
Barrel is 2 groove and looks to be in decent shape. I dont have a scope to fully inspect it, but lands and grooves are still crisp enough...and no sign of pitting. There is one spot by the chamber mouth where the extractor lines up with, that I need to get a better look.

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Originally Posted by swilson

Thanks for all the reminders about headspace. Have not had it checked yet (or fired it).

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Please don't forget :

Clean the locking lug surfaces of the rifle and put a smear of 'engineers blue' marking dye onto the corresponding locking surfaces of the inspectors bolt. Insert this bolt RIGHT FORWARD, rotate it closed, then draw it backwards and forwards a couple of times to mark the mating locking surfaces of the rifle. Push it forwards, unlock and remove.
Examine the locking surfaces of the rifle. The blue witness marks should be evident. This ensures that whatever wear that has taken place on the rifle locking surfaces has taken place equally. If its not, then I'm afraid that the rifle is unserviceable.

BUT, that's not quite the end of the story because you won't have this 'Gauge, Inspectors, bolt' but it's only right that I tell you. Now for a little secret. If you have ever bought a rifle that has a sploge of red paint on the left side, adjacent to the internal left side locking lug, then you now know that the rifle was condemned for 'worn locking lugs'.
If you are going to fit a second hand or new bolt, then do the same thing. If the dye pattern is one sided, then stone the high surface of the bolt until BOTH locking lugs bear evenly against the locking surfaces of the corresponding surfaces in the body. BUT DO NOT ATTEMPT to stone the rifle to get a bolt to fit (you can only get to the right hand surface in any case ....). The rifle body is induction hardened at these points to a depth of .004 - .006" but we have found it deeper.