L42A1

Can anyone recommend the proper way to straighten a tilted front sight on an L42A1?

IIRC they are soldered on, and presumably pinned. If no cross-pin is present, then it should be easy.

Peter's method of aligning the front and back sights IIRC, was to remove the backsight, but re-insert the axis pin. Remove the front guard and blade, invert the barrelled action on a sufficiently flat surface (your wife's granite counter top?), rest the axis pin on a gauge block (not on the "ears" the pin passes through) and rotate the front sight base until aligned.

The only issue I can see is that the flat on top of the front sight base is so narrow that a good deal of care and back-lighting would be needed to see that it was actually aligned; any burrs or other damage to that face would also interfere. A steel block or bar an inch long or so, with the male dovetail of the sight blade machined into one side and inserted in place of the sight blade, would make the process quicker and more reliable I suspect. (both sides machined perfectly parallel obviously)

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Originally Posted by Surpmil

IIRC they are soldered on, and presumably pinned. If no cross-pin is present, then it should be easy.

Peter's method of aligning the front and back sights IIRC, was to remove the backsight, but re-insert the axis pin. Remove the front guard and blade, invert the barrelled action on a sufficiently flat surface (your wife's granite counter top?), rest the axis pin on a gauge block (not on the "ears" the pin passes through) and rotate the front sight base until aligned.

The only issue I can see is that the flat on top of the front sight base is so narrow that a good deal of care and back-lighting would be needed to see that it was actually aligned; any burrs or other damage to that face would also interfere. A steel block or bar an inch long or so, with the male dovetail of the sight blade machined into one side and inserted in place of the sight blade, would make the process quicker and more reliable I suspect. (both sides machined perfectly parallel obviously)

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What should I use as a heat source that will not damage the Suncorite?

I can't see a way not to, if a torch is being used. At least you can shield the exposed part of the barrel with a wet rag perhaps. Whatever it does to the paint on the foresight block you will have to repaint or cover up as best you can. The foresight protector will cover most of it and that has to come off as the first step obviously. Use a hand-held infrared thermometer to keep tabs on the heat perhaps?

Your other option is just to get it straight and then use Loctite.

Is this the original barrel or a replacement from another rifle / brand-new stock?

Does the extractor relief cut in the rear of the barrel tenon line up correctly with the body when torqued up?

Is it correctly headspaced (TIGHT!) to that body / bolt / bolthead combination?

Breeching washer? There are ELEVEN different thicknesses, ranging from .067" to .077" thick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruce_in_Oz

Is this the original barrel or a replacement from another rifle / brand-new stock?

Does the extractor relief cut in the rear of the barrel tenon line up correctly with the body when torqued up?

Is it correctly headspaced (TIGHT!) to that body / bolt / bolthead combination?

Breeching washer? There are ELEVEN different thicknesses, ranging from .067" to .077" thick.

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The barrel is indexed properly, but the front sight isn’t. That was the first thing I checked.