Where is this stock binding?

I'm installing a Boyd's stock on a rifle that I built up from a loose CMP reciever. This is the only Boyds stock I have ever had trouble with. I relieved a bit of wood from the top surfaces to make the reciever sit flush in the stock, and quite a bit of wood on the trigger guard flats to get the proper lock up.

When the trigger group is locked inplace the action binds when the bolt is pulled to the rear. I can pull it all the way back and lock it, though it is tight. But the binding is such that the op rod and bolt will not go forward on thier own when released. They take a substantial "bump" with the palm on the op rod handle to get the bolt to go forward.

The binding disappears when the trigger guard is unlatched.

Anyone had this problem before? I can't see where any wood needs to be relieved to help the matter. Should I just shoot it a few times to loosen it up?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Wood should not be removed from the top surfaces of the stock.
Except-
There should be as slight air gap from the back of the receiver for about 1 1/4" forward- meaning that portion of the receiver is floating.

To relieve pressure material should be taken off the bottom where the trigger plate contacts the stock.

jiml

Jim,

In this case there were significant gaps between the wood and the receiver at the magazine well. The heal was suspended above the wood.

The Jouster instructions on fitting a Boyd's stock also indicate that sometimes wood must removed from the top also.

Now if I could just figure out where the binding is occuring while the TG is locked in...

Remove the op rod spring, assemble the rifle without it in the stock. Look to see if the op rod is dragging at some point on the wood.

Regardless of what Jouster says, I don't take wood off the top.
jiml

I'll give that a try this evening and see if that helps.

Thanks

I agree with JimL, I don't take wood off the top either. but to me it sounds like your op-rod is binding in the stock. all the boyds stocks I have done had to have this area cut for clearance, some were a lot. HTH

Try puting some lubriplate on the op rod, then place the stock back on. Cycle the op rod a few times and remove stock. Look for lubriplate on the wood. This may show where the rod is binding.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joe W

Try puting some lubriplate on the op rod, then place the stock back on. Cycle the op rod a few times and remove stock. Look for lubriplate on the wood. This may show where the rod is binding.

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Like Joe says :thup:

I found it. It was the oprod rubbing. I had to take off about 1/32 off the angled flat on the right-side, inside of the barrel channel. The "joint" area of the oprod where the drawing number is stamped was rubbing on this flat. It now opens and closes smooth as glass.

Thanks for the suggestions

:thup:
:D