Folks I'm new to trapdoors. I'm looking for a data sheet like I have for other surplus firearms. Does anyone have a source for one? A basic internet search brought me only scores of 'load data', which I may need in time.
Thanks in advance,
Jess
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Folks I'm new to trapdoors. I'm looking for a data sheet like I have for other surplus firearms. Does anyone have a source for one? A basic internet search brought me only scores of 'load data', which I may need in time.
Thanks in advance,
Jess
I don't have one. Maybe someone does. One can be made from details in a good reference book, like Poyer & Riesch. Some might argue the accuracy of some details in Poyer's books, like exactly when things were adopted, etc., but for making a data-sheet all the categories you would want can at least be readily listed out.
I highly recommend getting a copy of Spencer Wolfe's book. He is passed now, but his wife still sells it. I bought mine on amazon - click on "see all buying options". Pat Wolfe is the first seller. She sent a kind handwritten note with mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by JLJ
https://www.amazon.com/Loading-cartr...ast_author_mpb
The short story is that knowledge of loading methods had been lost over the years since the rifles were in active service, and so everyone came to think they were inaccurate rifles. However there was a pretty impressive record set by one of the US Army marksmanship teams in the late 1800's that motivated Wolfe to research and write the book. I want to say the record was ~1MOA group at either 300 or 600 yards with standard issue (for the time) ammunition. Google is no help, and the Wolfe book is unfortunately not indexed and I've been thumbing through it for 5 minutes searching. Alas you will need to get the book.
I shoot smokeless loads in my trapdoors. It's a good idea to never shoot jacketed or hard cast bullets, stick to the 20:1 or 30:1 alloy that was originally used. The rifling grooves are very deep. 405gr bullets should be cavity back to promote expansion into the grooves. 500gr have enough mass to expand properly without the cavity. Hard cast or jacketed or lighter+non-cavity bullets don't engage the rifling as readily causing 1) accuracy problems and 2) severe throat erosion from gas cutting. It doesn't take many jacketed bullets to ruin an otherwise nice trapdoor barrel. I don't cast (yet), but the soft bullets can be had from buffaloarms.com for a very reasonable price. If the previous owner didn't ruin your barrel, you'll likely find it in much better condition than most other surplus arms of average condition. The original soft bullets left a thin film of lead in the bore, protecting the surface. I have an 1873 and an 1884. Bores looked rough until I cleaned them - utterly pristine under that lead film.
Lastly, depending on what year you have, you can and should make a new taller front sight for target shooting. The original front sight requires you to hold low about 12-18 inches or more to get on a standard SR1 bull. So make a front sight blade and swap (save your original of course!) or paste a second target far below to aim at.
I worked on the original data sheet on the M1 Rifle long time ago. Any data sheet will require as many collectors as you can find that will help as some details are often left out.
There are data sheets for the Model 1911 & 1911A1 and data sheet for the Model 1903 & variations