I recently purchased a new stock set from the CMP and would like some help on how to go about appling a GI style finish.
hpcomp
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I recently purchased a new stock set from the CMP and would like some help on how to go about appling a GI style finish.
hpcomp
How are you going to use the rifle? Is it mostly a collector or a shooter?
I'm a bit predjudiced and only use BLO. Here's a couple of pictures of my "C" stock on a M1903M that I finished last year. At the time of the photo it had about 21 or 22 coats of BLO. Not an easy way out, but worth it to me.
I was taught with a new stock the old adage. Once a day for a week, Once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year forever after.
Depending on my time, most of mine get at least twice yearly rubdowns.
And I know that the Kerr sling isn't right. Wasted $10 on a reproduction-live and learn.
Bob
https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif
https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif
This rifle is built to shoot and will most definitly be used in competition. It is a beautiful piece of walnut w/ matching handguards. It also came w/ new metal. Very pleased w/ this purchase and would highly recommend it to anyone interested in doing a stock upgrade for purposes other than historical.
hpcomp
hpcomp from what your going to use this for I think that you would be happier with the look of blo. Tung oil looks more original but with no shine. IMHO
I've read that tung is a better finish so far as sealing and stabilizing the wood. Is that correct? If so maybe it'd work well to apply tung inside and out to seal, then follow with BLO for maintenance?
Byron
Reason I asked was that there are different uses one can put this rifle to: wallhanger, safe queen, JCG match rifle*, plinker, hunter etc..etc. If it's going outdoors extensively I'd use (and have used) Minwax Tung Oil Finish with or without appropriate stain. The reasons being:For collectibles or rifles that want that "authentic" or "historical" look, or for those with an urge to make an old battle rifle look like an old battle rifle, BLO or tung oil is recommended. These finishes can be made to look gorgeous, but they take time, patience and care. And, they are less weather/water resistant than Minwax TOF or True Oil (which I've also seen recommended but never used).
- It's water resistant
- It's exceedingly easy to apply.
- It can be touched up quickly and easily.
- It;s cheap (relatively).
- It looks bloody good.
* I left out high power matches because although the M1 can be used in high power, I don't think the effort required to make it competitive is worth the agony. Just a personal take on it.
Of course, YMMV!
This is what I have in the house: BLO & beeswax-turpentine-linseed oil stock finish. Can't find the tung oil. I've used these on old stocks but never on a new piece of wood. I just want to get it right the 1st time.
hpcomp
Actually, for a competition rifle, a solvent-based high percent solids exterior polyurethane is about the best finish you can use! The stuff I use was the same stuff that the Ohio Div of Parks and Recreation used on wood picnic that sat outside in northern Ohio winters for decades. Oil finishes may be more "historic", but not better for stabilizing the wood. "Better things for better living through chemistry!" YMMV!