Sniper Scope, No. 32, MKII, Reproduction
I think I'll spring for one.
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Sniper Scope, No. 32, MKII, Reproduction
I think I'll spring for one.
I wonder if they'll keep the same serial number on them, or +1 on each they make. Or if they'll do a special order with a serial # to match the rifle.
Egads. Everyone can have a No. 4 Mk1 (T) now!!!
There otta be a law!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
May their armpits be infested with the fleas of a million camels.
Supply and demand I guess. There isn't the supply for legit ones, unless you are well heeled.
Dunno if I will get one. They would have to be top quality for me to spring $600 on one. Then I have to get a T stamp... then the stamps for the furniture ... then ... wake up.
why oh why would any one make the mk2 instead of the mk3?
and what is really going on with that rubbish about being set for 300 yards, there's some cheap short cut inside I bet ...
Be interesting to see what the quality's like. I see they seem to have a date on but no manufacturer mark (eg AK&S) which previous repros had. And they're not marked as mkIIIs. Wonder what they're made out of.
Saved advertisement here for research posterity … ;)
Given the markings, I think they're pretty easily distinguished from the real thing, however, they could fool a novice collector if disreputable folks start slapping together some reproduction pads and flogging them at gun shows sold "as is" etc ......Quote:
Sniper Scope, No. 32, MKII, Reproduction
Numrich Product No. 1249080 $599.00
Sniper Scope, No. 32, MKII, Reproduction
High-quality reproduction of the original WWII No. 32 MKII 3.5 power scope. Manufactured using original drawings and high-tech optics machinery, including state-of-the-art single-point diamond turning equipment. Scope is factory collimated with a pre-setting of zero/300 yards. Note: Our web site photo shows a scope mounted on an original No. 4T sniper rifle for visual purposes only.
By the way, here's an old thread on these started by Roger Payne last year when they showed up in Europe ...
Repro No32's....I think they've arrived....
Just my two cents ... :cheers:
Regards,
Doug
I'd be happier if they had no markings at all so there is no way they could be mistaken for the real deal.
Nice for what they are.
Don't let that 300 yard business put you off. If you're starting from scratch (see the No4T mount thread) and needed a telescope that you could shoot regularly at, say, 100 yards, you could cater for this lack of low range adjustment in the build-up.
I think that they were back engineered and not made to the original spec as stated although if they work it's pretty well academic I suppose.
Like RJW, I can' understand why they opted for the Mk2 instead of the mechanically simpler and cheaper Mk3. Maybe it was a case that they already had the CNC tooling for the Mk2's because these had been repro'd earlier in the year, albeit with duff markings
Unless the drums are for looks alone, and may be a fixed range scope.
I thought about that - but how'd you collimate it or even zero it to the rifle. I just think, not having seen one, that they've used some odd thread form on the lead screw and can't get it to drop from 10 to 0 so at 3 it stays. Probably wrong until we see one.
Any idear RP?
In my opinion, with those markings, they aren't reproductions - they're FAKES!
No ifs buts or maybes. They are designed to deceive.
I couldn't agree more! This is the kind of "stuff" that drives me nuts, mind you somedays that isn't a very far trip.:mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerhunter
I agree but being the devils advocate, they'll always be easy(?) to spot and think of this..... More Lee Enfield shooters will be able to make up a half decent look-a-like and partake in shooting to keep the name alive. That MUST be a good thing. And there's only a finite amount of the real McCoy
A blank slate will only give the fakers a canvas to add unique/expensive markings or match an incomplete unit and create future problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by xa-coupe
DPL,Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
I really couldn't say for sure -- have only seen a couple of the early ones that turned up at Ciney last year, & then only from the outside. However, I would strongly suspect they may have goofed somewhere in the reverse engineering process - perhaps as you intimate &, say, they don't have the right adjustment on the lead screw, for example. Issuing this statement in the description could be a way of covering their posteriors. Why would one "make 'em wrong"??
ATBDRP
It does plainly state in Numerich's ad that they are reproductions. I am just glad they are now available as a cheaper alternative to the real thingQuote:
Originally Posted by Beerhunter
And when they are sold on sans the Numrich blurb?Quote:
Originally Posted by grant580
If they are designed to be reproductions they should not fake the markings not leave them blank (for the later addition of fake markings) but clearly mark them as reproductions.
BTW don't get me wrong, products like these and Roger Payne's mounts (I have one on my own No4.T) will help more people get their No4Ts back to a shooting rifle and I applaud that. I just ask why the manufacturer added the fake markings if they are not designed to deceive.
That's a good point that I hadn't thought about myself... :thup:Quote:
Originally Posted by breakeyp
Regards,
Doug
I agree there to some degree Beery as these scopes were never used in real life........ Roger Paynes mounts definately WERE used albeit as replacement parts for needy service L42's. I hope you don't mind me repeating that DRP as I think that it's important that it should be known because somewhere out there in the, albeit small, L42 owning world, there are about/up to 50 L42's with those mounts
I never knew that Peter ... :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
I think I'll have to check the L42's in my wife's collection stored in the vault this afternoon, to see if she has any of Roger's mounts on them. :thup:
Thanks for the heads up ... :cheers:
Regards,
Doug
DPL
Thanks for yours. As an aside, I don't mark the brackets other than with the sequential numbers on the cradle clamps. I've found that the brackets have always sold for what they are; accurate (though by no means undetectable) modern-made reproductions. Even with the dawn of the cheaper 2nd/3rd world produced copies mine still trickle out steadily....which must say something!
ATVBDRP
The scope mounts that Roger sells are great! I use them on my selfmade No.4MkI*. Good ones!
I've had one of these scopes for some time and due to circumstances beyond my control have not been able to do much on the news groups as wellas do this report of the repro 32.
I've attached two pictures of the repro 32 scope parts and also included some actual 32 parts. Most of the repro parts, while close do not interchange. The one thing I do not like is the OG assembly is screwed into the tube body and the screw heads are ground off to fit the tube body. They would have to have the slots re-cut to enable removal or drilled out and replaced with slotted screws. There is also no indexing screw to align the OG tube body into the scope tube body and you have to be careful during assembly or you will cause damage to the deflection lead screw.
The reticule is stamped in one piece with no separate post and cross wire causing a slightly different sight picture. You can see the radius of the wire and post and not the sharp, clean definition of the wire and post. I'll set up my electronic microscope and photograph the difference at a later date.
There is also a bit of slop on the lead screws to both the windage (deflection) and elevation (range) but not yet sure if it will be significant when shooting. There are no anti backlash springs but I might drill the diaphragm and add one at a later date.
Detent plungers are a bit rough and I replaced them with stainless balls and stiffer springs.
The lenses are TOP QUALITY....... I've not yet pulled down the erector cell and checked the lenses on the optical bench, but the ocular lenses are excellent quality and no aberration found. OG seems excellent but then again this was tested in the tube.
Tube is steel and appears well drawn, while the turret block is a CNC product and it does not have the rounded profiles of a casting.
There are a few features that require some "tarting up", but all in all I think they are more than fair value for the money. A bit of work and they should be a nice stop gap until the real thing comes along or for the shooter who does not want to use his 1500 dollar scope at the range.
Once I finish tarting this one up I'll give a range report, but circumstances have prevented me from hitting the range for a while....but not for long, I HOPE!!!!!.
This is far from a complete analysis of the repro scope but just a starter. I have included some original parts such as the lead screw (the brass one is a new original) a lead screw jam (one is the white is an original) and of course the two piece OG and the housing with the worn brass and separate OG lens is original as compared to the blued, one piece repro.
Anyone who wants to correspond on the repro scopes, please feel free, either on the board or through the PM's.
Would I buy another......sure, but just don't expect a Zeiss...
Cheers,
Warren
I would buy one, just because it has to be just as good as a weaver and looks a lot better. I just have to find someone who will ship to Australia, as the $100 USD export rule stops Numrich to sell to me. (You would think with the way the US economy is the government would be happy for any sale that would help a business)
I would have to say anyone serious about collecting would spot it as a repoduction, but I can see the point that other members are veiwing.
Myles
Myles,
a "group buy" maybe if we can get someone to help us Aussies out?
I will be in. Finding a weaver that has the correct recticle that's not too expensive and will send to Aus is proving to be tough. For all the effort I may as well pony up extra for a repro.
Regarding posting one of these to Oz. Am I missing something..........? Don't you just put it into a jiffy bag, declare it for what it is and post it? Surely if the retailer won't do it, just ask someone else to buy it off the retailer for you then send it on...........
It can't be THAT difficult. I've just sent an L96 chest stuffed with a few other odds and sods to Oz. Customs opened it, binned the spare bolt that I'd accidentally left in there, got the customs duty paid and within 2 weeks it was there! A telescope should be a doss unless I've missed something....
Peter, you would think it is that simple. Numrich won't send anything over $100 USD internationally. Some US rule, that has been imposed. Other places won't ship also. I can't buy and ship to friends over there also as the billing address has to be same as the credit card address. Bugger if I know why it is so hard, for something so simple.
Myles
Whilst it wont affect these scopes :
As I understand it (in the USA) any scope with more than 4x magnification is classed as 'military' and is not allowed to be either imported or exported.
Another example of 'closing the borders' I think.
This can't be true. Most of the scopes sold in the USA have been imported from somewhere. I believe even some of the remaining US manufacturers get their lens sets from overseas.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield
Perhaps with a little research the real source of these scopes could be identified and you could 'cut out the middleman".
Regards,
Jim
You can get 'anything' with a licence - as an un-licenced 'individual' you cannot import/export a 4X + scope.Quote:
Originally Posted by JGaynor
I'd sold a scope on ebay (to a US buyer) when the problems arose - easily got around of course as it became a "telescope" and not a "telescopic sight"
Below is an example of restrictions listed by a UK gunshop for shipping to the USA :
NeRESTRICTIONS
We cannot send any air rifles or air pistols to USA
WE CANNOT SEND SILENCERS TO ANY US STATE
We cannot send scopes over 4x mag, bipods or silencers to USA
We can send all other accessories
DELIVERY METHOD
Parcels over 2kg - TNT
Parcels over 60cm length - TNT
Parcel less than 2kg - International Signed For post
Well, I ordered one of these scopes this morning. Will be interesting to see it in hand. I would guess from the quality of the optics that Warren reported, that the scope is probably made in the former USSR somewhere, probably the Ukraine.
Hope they made the adjusting tools to go with them!
They won't be a lot of use without them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Surpmil
I really MUST get around to publishing my article on how to use the tools to zero the scope - without losing one's reason in the process.
YES PLEASE! That would be a great thing to have! Then I can stop hassling Peter for help! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerhunter
If the fiddly bits are properly torqued, this simple tool works fine! (It came w/ a rifle, don't know who made the tool.)
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tuff0061-1.jpg
I asked at Fulton's yesterday if they had any tools for adjusting a Mk3...I was told I could join their waiting list of over 300 people asking the same question!
Just a minute............, you don't need a tool to adjust a Mk3 do you?
Want to adjust a Mk1 or 2, then just switch off the TV and read this note for a minute, then read it again.
First, before you go out onto the range, release by 1/4 turn the large diameter lead screw locking nuts. They are the black, steel, .75" diameter forked nut that sit astride the central brass lead screws in the centre of the range and deflection turrets. Doing this will have freed-off the adjusting lead screws. Now tighten the locking nuts so that they JUST nip up the lead screws. Now read that again if you are a ham fisted butcher.... Just tighten sufficiently to nip-up the lead screw. You can test that it's tight enough by twisting the drum heads up and down the scales and watching the lead screw move in unison.
From this you can see that now the lead screws - the screws that control the movement of the graticle block - can be turned fairly easily because they are just nipped-up as opposed to absolutely screwed right down. To be fair, nipped up is all you, the average Jo out on the range at the weekend really needs. If you are going out stalking a Nazi Brigade Commander at Monte Casino or watching the demolition party attempting to blow a bridge on the advance into Antwerp, then you might need them screwed up xxxxing tight, but bear with me!
Next, take your rifle out onto the ranges and if you're zeroing in at, say, 300 or 400 yards (my ranges of choice) then set the deflection drum to zero and rhe range drum to 3 (or 4). Shoot 2 or 3 warmers into the bank to get the general idea of where you are, then fire a 5 round group into the target. You bring the MPI (the mean point of impact) of the group in USING THE LEAD SCREW ONLY, WITH A FORKED TOOL, just like JMore has shown you in his photo above. That is all you need. Do it a tad at a time knowing that a movement equating to 1 click will move the MPI 3" at 300 yards (or 4" at 400 yards). Within a few rounds, you'll be on target and a couple more, you'll be in the bull.
Which way to turn the leadscrew....., easy. You ALWAYS treat an optical graticle as a foresight and you remember the Armourers phrase
FORSIGHT INTO THE ERROR (backsight out of the error). So with a No32 graticle, just say to yourself C=D+R which means CLOCKWISE EQUALS DOWN AND RIGHT. Turn the leadscrew clockwise to bring the graticle DOWN and RIGHT.
Remember 'foresight into the error....., well, if you're bullets are going LOW, then LOWER the foresight - or in this case, the graticle. If you're going left then turn the leadscrew ANTI clockwise (don't forget, clockwise is right!)
When it all zeroed, fire a check group, clean the rifle and put it away. There's no need whatsoever to to clamp up the leadscrews more than that. They should be nipped up, just enough to be gripped sufficiently so that when you turn the drum, it turns the leadscrew. Nothing more and that's all there is to it.
Any questions.................. Range practice first thing on Saturday. Sgt Smith, make sure that they're ready, rifles clean, on the 300 yard firing point at 9 o'clock. Don't forget the ear boxes, flags, the phone and zeroing kit
Make the tool from an old Allen wrench. Mine's been serving well for almost 20 years.
As for the importability, there's no restrictions on import in the USA. However, there are restrictions on export in the USA and everywhere else in the so-called free western world. Here in the USA, certain telescopes are classed as military and must be exported through Defense Trade Control, U.S. Dept. of State. Others deemed for sporting purposes only are export licensed by the U.S. Dept. of Commerce.
I received my No32 repro from gunpartscorp a few days ago. The glass is nice, clear right to the edges. Haven't had a chance to test repeatability. There are several distinct differences from the original so if you have adequate knowledge of the No32 you'll see the difference.
I've seen several different scope serial numbers now.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../repro05-1.jpg
Mine should get here on the 22nd.
One of my T's came with the tool and the other was purchased out of Denmark on ebay. They do show-up more frequently than I would have guessed. Just told a couple of friends I was looking for one and two months later had it. The first one they emailed me about was a reproduction that was too expensive and the one I got from Denmark only cost me about $15 more than what the repro one went for.
Strangest thing in arrived at my home in Canada in 8 days from Denmark, which is superfast considering it takes 5 days to get a letter from BC to NL.
scopes no longer on numrich site .sold out maybe
Thank the Lord for that I was wavering :) They were still on there yesterday - either someone forgot to remove it sooner or they've sold out fast :) :)
Paul
The one on the right is like something from outer space............ I've been in the UK Military small arms system for a couple of years and never seen anything that looks like that. Surely someone isn't passing these off as original are they? The one on the left looks like the original but I never ever saw one used, not even as a basic stripping tool in the Instrument shop in the era of the Mk2's.
This subject of the Mk3 tool is becoming a hoary old chestnut! I bought a No32 Mk3 via an intermediary about 20 years ago. It came from a retired armourer who had made a tool as per the one shown at right for his own personal use when working on scopes. I subsequently had the late Graham Smith make up three or four more & MJ1 acquired one from me. There is no mystique to them. That is all there is to the story. Incidentally, Graham took it upon himself to add the markings. I have found mine useful at times but have never for one moment suggested that it is an official issue item (the one shown was made about 7 or 8 years ago). Unless someone has started copying the copies then to the best of my knowledge there are about four or five in existence, two of which are in my garage!Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
ATB
I know its not a Mk3 tool but how many of these have survived ?
It did cost a 'few' pennies but it goes with my 4T with a Mk1 scope.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../No4T012-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../No4T013-1.jpg
THere were no official tools that the soldier/sniper could use or was permitted to use on the Mk3/L1A1. The Armourers that were Instrument Qualified used the tools that were issued and such a tool wasn't issued......... The tool that WAS issued was a Spanner, pegged, adjustable, V6-WZ 0058 which sort of did the job - if you were desperate! Most, like me, made their own tools according to their needs. I've still got most of mine that have been used for some 40 years now. But I never saw a Mk3/L1A1 tool. Indeed, an Instrument technician wouldn't need to hold the lead screw while he locked the locking nut down because.............. anyway. Once he'd set it up, they went onto the test range where the instrument techs and Armourers would have a play and then the sniper made the final adjustment using the nose of a round.
In short, nope......, I never saw or had need to use a Mk3/L1A1 adjusting tool. But I could be wrong
Are the scopes no longer listed?
But what does it do? And how?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield
The outer two 'claws' grip the outside of the turret (to stop it turning) whilst the peg on the inner one sits in the adjuster and turns it whilst the outside is heldQuote:
Originally Posted by Beerhunter
Er......... I don't think it turns anything Alan! The outer claws grip the actual turret while the inner one (fixed) is slotted to hold the actual lead screw in place. There is another tool, the key, that's part of the set. Then when the turret is gripped and the lead screw is held in place, the key locks it all up. It was a zillion times better than the tool in the box, but dear o' deary me, it was still marginally better than hopeless. Armourers were encouraged to make the tool and many did during their basic trade training (see drawings in the telescope book....., cheap and a good read too!). But as I explained, most Armourers chose to ignore these monstrosities and, like me, made their own from ideas taken from experienced Armourers that they met along the way
i'm not a professional machinist by a long shot but i see no reason why anyone with even basic knowledge of the trade can't make a useable adjusting tool themselves. can't be that difficult. i'm new here so forgive me for getting off the subject and back tracking but this may help others as well. i put my REPRO no.4t together in sept. 09, before Peter posted his how - to article. there are a couple of steps that i did different from the ones in the article. namely centering the scope and the soldering bit. so,Peter, my question is now that i have my sweaty little paws on a REPRO no.32, is it too late to go back and correct the parts i got wrong?
just for the record i did center the scope, just used a different method.
It's difficult to answer, not knowing which parts you got wrong! But repositioning the pads would be one area where it'd be virtually impossible to correct it.
In respect of centreing the scope........., centreing it with what? The bore of the rifle (collimation) or centreing the graticle with the optical axis of the bore? Sure, there's more than one way to skin a cat. But what I really wanted to do was ensure that anyone who went into the project, came out with something that was a passable repro and at least everything aligned optically as it should have. I had a go with one where the point of the grat was so far up in the top left side of the screen, the grat was curved and gave me cross eyes!
Believe me, in passing I've seen some home made howlers (and not even home made, but dealer/enthusiastic amateur monstrosities too.....) where to get the telescoped rifle zeroedf, the point of the grat was anywhere but in the centre of the image screen - which is where it must be!
what i mean by ''centering the scope'' is that i placed the reticule at the center of its adjustment travel. windage&elevation. after rereading your article i realized i did'nt do anything wrong i just left out a step. the soldering part. when i put this rifle together i used a weaver k-4 scope because of the lack of a no.32. also when i positioned the rear pad i did it at 100yds instead of 250. my end results must be at least cloce to yours on the basis that at the range it took only 2 minutes right and 3 minutes down to get it shooting perfect center. i am soon to be in the process of replacing the weaver with a repro no.32. hope everything goes ok. what i am wanting to know is can i still solder the pads the way you say to or is it too late?
Yep, just take them off, clean down, tin both surfaces, heat to melting point and screw down. I used to let the solder run into the screw threads too so that it effectively glued them in place. Make sure that the screws are red hot so that when they're tight they contract down.
Whilst we are on the subject, 'soft solder' is the solder used for electronics?
don't know for sure. i asume it is one with a high lead content like 95/5 maybe. what do you recommend Peter?
My Numrich scope arrived today. Interestingly the serial numbers are in rotation based on the catalog example and one shown on another forum. Mine is #16031 suggesting that the run may have started at 16000. Examination shows that there are enough differences that a knowledgeable person won't be fooled.
What's your first impression of it? They look pretty nice in the pictures.
I'm hoping there will be another run early in the new year.
Many thanks Peter - as you may have guessed I've had no call to use the tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Soft solder is what used to be called 'lead and flux soldering' while hard solder is what we still call 'silver soldering'. Which is a step below brazing. It's slightly more technical than that - but that's basically it
Thanks Peter.. soft solder I can deal with.
I have since taken a more detailed look at the scope and its packaging. The scope has no import or manufacturing marks. The purpose built cardboard box has no markings. The scope was supported in the box with two carboard tubes and the scope was wraped in taped tissue paper. There are absolutely no indications of where this came from. How did it pass customs with no markings as to origin?
my guess is they probably came over in a large shipping crate and were then repackaged individually by the retailer. import taxes would be a whopper if shipped seperately. anybody had a chance to field test one yet?
My No32 GPC scope arrived today. Initial impressions are that it looks better than the originals! Glass is REALLY nice and appears to be coated. only complaint is the datum marks on the top turret do not line up with the arrow on the housing.
This is going on my 1942 Savage No4MkI* scopeless T.
Serial follows all others, mine is 16026.
I put the reproduction scope and SARCO reproduction mount on a naked L42 that has been setting on the rack looking funny without a telescopic sight for the last fifteen years.
The scope went into the mount with no difficulty and buttoned up with no problem. I put it on the rifle and set up a Busnell Collimator to evaluate the sight vs. barrel correlation.
I was able to confirm what Peter has said many times in the past. The scope/mount was not in alignment with the bore. The sight picture is off set to the left further the scopes' ability to shift the pointer into alignment.
I will try a few other mounts and naked rifles to see if I can find a combination that works.
Has anyone taken the time to compare the dimentions of the repro pads & mounts to those of the orininals? If it's the norm for the sight picture to be offset to the left then maybe the makers of the repro stuff might be a bit smarter than they are being credit for. If the scope fits the mount and the mount fits the rifle then it sounds like they left some extra meat on the pad/mount mating surfaces to allow the purchaser to precisely fit it to a particular rifle. Especially if it is being installed on an original thats missing just the mount.
The front spigot on the SARCO can be to shallow. I have a photo of one that is .060" and another that ran .080" that's 8" at 100 yards right,, I must have that wrong. .008"=1" at 100 yards I think. Well they are way off but fixable. I should write this stuff on the back of my hand. Plus the back of the bracket is also fat so maybe it's that way so you can fit it like a 91/30 Mosin bracket. Better to be to fat than having to shim.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...6a7c6e4f-1.jpg
When you see them side by side the Sarco is way different to the original in quite a few ways.
There is clearly a lot of variance with the Sarco mounts. Mine looks a lot deeper.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2/sarco3-1.jpg
I can thoroughly recommend Roger Payne's bracket
I agree there Oxford Andy and good advice. If you have an original but bracketless No4T rifle, then that's the only way to go. It might take a bit of hand fitting to get it all exactly aligned but that's what we had to do anyway, even when we were forced to replace a bracket with an original part worn/used one.
BUT, the repros from Sarco and the now repro scopes give everyone a chance to make a repro No4 sniper. And so long as you follow the previous instructions you've got a lot of leeway. And if you don't drill anything until you KNOW it's dead right (remember the old phrase, measure twice, cut once.....), you can always go back and start again
They get my vote too.
With regards to mounts, there are many subtle and many "not so subtle" differences. Attached is a smattering of 9 mounts: some original and some not. :-)## Notice the differences, and even within the repro mounts there are a number of differences which leads me to believe they are from more than on manufacturer. I suspect the first batch: SARCO and SPORTSMANS were from India, others from the USA with some out of eastern Europe and my money is on the Czech Republic. British and Canadian original mounts vary as much as the repro.
miss alignment of the datum and drum seems consistent with all of the scopes seen. The clicker plate turret indexing is not correct and there is also no aligning pin between the range drum and the clicker plate. Also, the profile of the plunger is not good and will either wear into the clicker plate or more than likely break off at the head from repeated use. I've had to "tart up" the ones I've seen so far.
I am assuming since they are no longer listed on the Numrich website, they must be sold out.
When looking through my no.32 scope the reticle and the object being viewed are fuzzy. All modern scopes i've delt with have some form of adjustment to correct this. Any way to fix this on the 32? Other than having the rare opportunity to shoot an original no.4t some 10 yrs ago and seeing another at a gun show i have no experience with them at all.
There is Vintage Hunter......... But before you do anything, you must ask yourself if it's the pre-focussed-on-an-optical-bench-telescope that needs adjusting or your eyes by means of spectacles. MANY shooters simply will not accept that they might need spectacles! If it's the telescope, unscrew the 4 round or cheese head screws holding the PLATE, cover, segment in place. Under the cover, you'll see a small alloy or brass 'SEGMENT'. Hook this out and notice that underneath, it is toothed (in such a way that it can be used in half pitch mode by rotating it horizontally through 180 degrees). Under the segment is what looks like a threaded or splined ERECTOR CELL. Mount the telescope firmly and aimed at a distant aiming point (a DAP). With a small screwdriver, gently move the brass erector cell fore or aft until the image and the grat are perfectly focussed. When they are (if they're not ........... that's another problem.....!) note which way round the segment will align with the splines/threads on the erector cell. Put a small blob of graphite grease in the hole followed by the segment and screw the cover down.
Got that.........? I have done one or two of these. BDL also sells a good readable book about these telescopes. Cheap too!
I have only had to do this twice once for myself and again for another guy who also had eye glasses and only when a third person with young eyes proofed the fix for me.I was still uncomfortable changing the focus but several people have shot both rifles and remarked how well the scopes pull in the tragets. Peter's book is invaluable for this and just about any other question. My copy has become dog-eared over the years.
....MJ....
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...c748a655-1.jpg
As I had mentioned in a previous post, the new reproduction scope and a SARCO mount shifted the windage too far to the left beyond the capability of the widgage adjustment to compensate based on use of an optical sight collimator.
I had time today to dig out additional reproduction scope mounts and did some comparison measurements of the thickness of the mount front pad as has been suggested.
My problem mount dimension 0.4885 inches
additional mount dimensions--all reproduction:
0.537
0.538
0.540
0.537
0.539
0.538
A factory mount measures 0.501. I was too lazy to pull down additional factory rifles/mounts.
I fitted the scope to the 0.540 mount and brought everything into reasonable alignment according to the optical sight collimator. At least I now have some windage travel available for final sighting in, if I ever get around to it.
It seems to me that if your interest is more in shooting than collecting, the repro mount with a Weaver scope would be more forgiving.
Thank you Peter for your advice. I do wear specticles and things are much better with them on. Now for the not so good part. Just got in from the range and am not entirely suprised at the findings. The mechanics on my particular no.32 repro do not live up to the $600 price tag in my opinion. But, what can you really expect from a knockoff that nobody's proud enough of to put their name on? The elevation or ranging adjustment worked good enough but, if you press down on it the pointer bobs up&down like a cork in the wind. Next, the real problem, was the deflection or windage screw seems to be bent. When turned left to right the pointer will rise a bit then go straight a bit then take a nose dive. Bent screw for sure. The up side to the whole mess was that, by some miracle of chance, I got the cussed thing to center up at 200 yds. Now if it will only stay there i can make do with a little Kentucky Windage at further ranges. I cincerely hope that everyone else that spent 600 hard earned dollars on one of these scopes has better luck than i have had so far. By millwright standards this ain't no percision instrument by a long shot. TO ALL MY FRIENDS @ MILSURPS.COM I WISH YOU & YOUR FAMILIES A MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM TOM STILL a.k.a VINTAGE HUNTER.
Got mine today santa new I was good:wave: ps its#16023,the one on numrich ad was 16555.limited numbers ?
In reply to your email vintage hunter. It's the 4 screws holding the cover plate down, - the plate that sits between the two raised rings around the circumference of the scope body.
The up and down movement of the grat in the verical plane isn't good as such but indicates a degree of backlash. But as the grat returns to its original place, it means that the backlash had been taken up, presumably by a spring. So I'd ignore it.
It's difficult to trouble shoot the deflection problem because the deflection cursor is held between a rigid dovetail in the inner sleeve....... But clearly something is wrong and a bent screw is likely but just HOW is the mystery to me, not having been into one of the repros. The first thing is to remove the lead screw and see if it's bent by spinning it in a lathe.
It's a lot easier to trouble shoot rifle problems.................
Well, apparently they're no longer here. The listing is gone from Numrich's online catalog. Looks like I'll be ringing them Monday to see if they'll be getting any more.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...6a7c6e4f-1.jpg
You can see the problem in this photo. I had two such brackets and the effort in fitting one to a friends scopeless #4T a lot of hand work and a drill press.
I just got off the phone with Numrich, for those of you who (like me) didn't or couldn't get one, they're gone and will probably not be restocked. :banghead:
It appears they've now removed the catalog information and advertisement .. :confused:
Sniper Scope, No. 32, MKII, Reproduction
Perhaps they're out of stock now and decided not to carry them any more?
Regards,
Doug
Did they by chance give a name for asource for the scopes. Maybe a group buy could be done?Quote:
Originally Posted by Longshaor
The URL isn't current.
I wonder if they sold out although the question is academic for me what with recent donations to Santa Claus for 9 grandchildren, the wife the kids and their spouses.
Hi guys,
I spoke with their customer service yesterday. They are sold out and do not intend to restock. I asked the girl I spoke with where they got them from as I need at least one (preferably a pair) and she stated she didn't know where they got them from nor who to ask to find out. She suggested I post the question on their forum, which I've done. If I get an answer I'll let you all know.
Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longshaor
Hopefully you get an answe. I would definately be interested in getting a group buy together if anyone else is interested.
Maybe it's just me, but frankly apart from the curiosity factor, I would not buy a fake No.32 scope with questionable pedigree for $600. If I'm going to have a non original scope on my No.4 Mark 1(T), I'd stick with my $30 Weaver as it's got good optics and has a genuine pedigree,
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IM001222-1.jpg
I think I've covered this before. Telescopes all require export licensing in the USA for permanent export. Current manufacture telescopes and optical sights made for tactical use have to be licensed by The Directorate of Defense Trade Control, U.S. Dept. of State and sporting telescopes and some red dot sights by The U.S. Department of Commerce. You can pop one in a jiffy bag and send it and chances are it might make it just fine. However, there's a small chance that it gets picked up and then the fine is a million bucks. Welcome to the land of the free. We're the most difficult country in what's left of the so-called "free Western world" to import/export firearms related items. It's a fact.
Which model weaver is that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Amatikulu
---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 PM ----------
Ah democracy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dick
The scope is a Weaver K-3, with the post reticle
wish I could find one for 30 bucks. Every time I see one on ebay or such it either goes for more than $100 and/or they won't post here.
Enough of my whining, I will find one.