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And I'm with the Maury! Frankly, there's nothing you can do to correct your trigger problem without replacing parts. I'd talk to the CMP, see what they say, but that trigger needs more "help" than just some abrasive. BTW, to identify your "problem part", Maury's parts-swapping gig is an EXCELLENT idea!.
Oh yeah.....your failure is the "other" mode of sear-capture failure, and I was remiss in not including it....chalk it up to not much sleep in the previous 72 hours with my apologies.
sir had the same hammer fall with out trigger pull on a IHC M1 VFW ceremonial blank rifle, , we tried putting a thin shim of cardboard/business card under the very rear of the trigger gaurd in the little u notch, it took several tries & several plies of paper, until it cured the problem. Hope this helps
da gimp
OFC, Mo. Chapter
Broken or worn sear or it remains in the open position or the hammer spring housing is improperly assembled. Replace the trigger assembly for the former. disassemble and assemble the trigger housing group for the latter.
Go here for free .pdf manuals. Note the need for the provided UN & PW.
Biggerhammer.net - Miscellaneous Firearms Technical and Training Manuals
The engineer in me couldn't resist. Besides I couldn't make a double fire situation any worse unless it went to full auto. I was able to fix the problem by stoning down the point of contact between the sear and the triffer after removing the small pin. Upon reassebly the latches from the hammer would release from one side to the other side when releasing the trigger following cycling. The parkerizing on the metal to metal contacts cased a little roughness in the action so I gently stoned those parts to just remove the parkerizing. This resulted in a smooth action. Overall it allowed me to feel the wall in the first stage of the trigger pull, relead=se crisply for the second stage and prevent a double fire by properly catching the hammer upon its return. I was happy with the results and even happier with the initial accuracy at 100 yards. somewhere around 1.5 MOA with a bipod. Not bad for a new barrel.
I'm an engineer too....and what you have done is toss a can of STP into an engine with a bad rod bearing and think you've fixed it just because it isn't banging as loud! Your trigger is still busted....as you are certain to find out!
it ALREADY has too much taken off the hooks. Replace the hammer with a non-botched up one, buy an extra trigger while you are at it, as it may be monked up also. Then, leave it alone or send it to someone for a proper trigger job.
[QUOTE=pgadsby;59702]The parkerizing on the metal to metal contacts cased a little roughness in the action so I gently stoned those parts to just remove the parkerizing. QUOTE]
Just to clarify, the hammer and sear contacts were parkerized on this rifle?
I know that parking these surfaces does not necessarily cause serious problems, but it can make a trigger feel awfully rough until it wears off. It is so easy to mask these surfaces that I wonder why anyone would park them.
I don't have any helpful advice, I'm just curious because I ordered a CMP Special. Glad to hear it is at least accurate.
Yes the surfaces were parkerized. The stock was unfinished walnut. I used two coats of Linseed oil and seven light coats of Casey's True Oil with 000 steel wool in between each coat. The finish turned out beautiful. I performed a similar treatment on the old Garand I received except I used a single coat of Boiled Linseed Oil. Figured it already had quite a bit of BLO in it. Really helped to revitalize the wood.
Garand stocks were finished with tung oil, not linseed.Quote:
Originally Posted by pgadsby
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Kepler
From the original post, I understood it to be a CMP Special, with a new walnut replacement stock. Does CMP/Dupage currently use tung oil? All of the new CMP stocks that I've seen look pretty dry.
ETA: I reread the post and saw he was talking about two different stocks