Battery for PVS-2

Did a bit more digging in the IWS handbook No. 60684 (1986), the Spec on the issue battery
is 6.75v and 2.7Ah.

But when you draw these type of batteries down they drop to about 6v.

Just for reference- the battery in question that came w/ the AN/PVS night vision "thinggy"- I don't remember which one any more:

(+)
6.5 volt
BATTERY DRY
BA1100/U
LYNTRONICS INC.
*569 ACORN ST., UNIT *
DEER PARK NY *1**9
@&$#^#%$ $*#$&&^#

(Asterisks and symbols denote altogether unreadable info-sorry about that)
Bottom line looks like it may have been a NATO stock number, but I'm not sure!

Since the last post I have had a most interesting time experimenting with homemade batteries and comparing the results with the original 4 XAA assembly that came with my PVS-2.

Firstly, I tried three lithium camera batteries in series (9 volts) reduced to 6.7 volts by means of seven diodes against the 6 volts of the AA Harness. In both instances the through-sight drop was found to be in the region of half a volt as mentioned in several of the postings. This resulted in just over 6.1 volts with my creation and 5.5 volts using the AA assembly. One would have thought that my effort would have had an edge over the original set-up. All I can say is that it worked! Was not nearly as good as with the lower voltage supplied by the four AAs. Obviously the ampere rating of the lithium batteries is too low.

The next test involved what I call my "Pill Box Special" whidh consisted of five AAA batteries connected in series (7.6 volts) reduced to 6.72 volts by means of three diodes. The through-sight voltage drop was again in the region of half a volt to 6.18 volts. Well, the results on looking through the sight at objects about 25 metres away are somewhat better than with the original AA assembly, but not greatly so. As yet I have not had an opportunity to test the sight at longer ranges, but will do so. However, as things stand at present. and in the absence of an opportunity to test the sight and rifle out on some crop-raiding bush pigs, I'll save myself the trouble and stick with the original 4 X AA harness. Its less bother to replace the batteries!

Now two final questions in which I request input from those who are a lot more familiar with the internal workings of the PVS-2 than I:

Firstly, there appear to be a few specs of dust on the internal lenses. Please, some tips on how to clean them. With my lack of experience I am reluctant to pull the sight to pieces and hope for the best.

Secondly, the T-shaped "cross-hair" is not quite vertical by perhaps 7 degrees. How is that adjusted?

If Mr laidler or other good folks haven't given you a virtual tour of the innards of your PVS-2 in a few days, I know a fellow (WBS2111) who has been into and repaired one or two(!) AN/PVS sights. Perhaps I can cajole him into posting.

I'm not familiar with the innards of the PVS's except for a few that were floating around in the Falklands, captured from the Argentinians. I had one once but the tube was finished. I'm more famliar with the RP Controls SS20 IIW's (the L1 A 1 to 7 types) but even then, I know them better that I can fix 'em.

Incidentally, I've just been informed that a UK company named MAPLINS do a 4x AA battery holder that wil fit and fire-up the 7.5v UK IIW although we've touched on this subject in this thread. But good to keep these old ladies on the road as I keep telling my wife............

For dismounting the tube:
1. Remove battery

2. Remove oscillator or ABC plug (red plug adaptor with ABC or oscillator and cap) under front screw on cap

3. Remove the knurled ring at the rear of the scope body (rh threads)

4. Remover the rear lens assembly by pulling to the rear, it has an "O" ring and might be snug.

5. The tube will now drop out of the scope body.

The most likely culprit for the rotated reticule is the locating pin on the front of the tube. The tube has a ring at the front that is threaded into the tube body. This ring has a hole in it for the locating pin. The tube is held in place with silicone plastic that is pored/molded around the tube with the ring on. Someone takes the ring off and tries to put it back on and the silicone gets in the way. Hence the locating pin is no longer in the proper position rotating your reticule that is etched on the tube end. If you remove the pin (it should just pull out) rotate the ring (sometimes necessary to remove it and clean out the threads) you should see a hole for the pin to go back into.

Hope that was not to convoluted to understand. I can send some pics if so.
Regards,
Burrell

That's pretty damn comprehensive WBS. What about one of those written and photo wotsits to walk us amateurs through the system. It SOUNDS very much like the old SS20 British IIW where the innards all come out through the rear