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Put the bolt in a ziplock bag (sandwich size works great). Pour in Hoppes #9 enough to cover the bolt. Let the bolt soak for 4 hours, then pick up the bag and slosh the bolt around. Let it sit another 4 hours. Slosh bolt around and remove from the bag. Wipe off surface, work the firing pin and the extractor. Let dry. If only dirt/grease was the problem it should be resolved. Otherwise, total disassembly of bolt is needed.
Ill let it set overnight in cleaner,blow it off with compressed air, repeat. After reading about how difficult the bolt is, thinking I should buy the bolt tool.
Thanks Again, Mark
I think the bolt tool is a must. Not only for the time, but the frustration factor. For the money I think the trigger spring tool is worth it too, I like the shorter one best.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../M1tools-1.jpg
A cheap ball point pen with the guts pulled works on the trigger spring..... at least for 5 or 6 R and Rs.
Bolt tool is a must, even just to keep maintained.
Lots of range time has been saved when you can pop in a fresh extractor instead of looking for it and the lost plunger and spring.
Jim
Has a nice pre cut piece made up for the trigger assembly that's a big time saver.
Charlie-painter777
Jim, what are the dimensions of the shorter trigger spring tool?
Phil,Quote:
Originally Posted by phil441
The barrel end that the spring goes into is 5/16" dia tubing 2 3/16" long, and the handle end is 9/32" od rod stock bent to go into the tubing and 1 1/2" long. Appears to be crimped together, maybe soldered inside also.
The longer one is 5/16" dia tubing 2 9/16" long, the handle is 9/32" rod that is also 2 9/16" long. Appears to be crimped together, maybe soldered inside also.
If you are going to make them you will need to send me a sample to check out. Of course in may not get returned. :rofl:
Jim
I do this to save my fat finger tips I used to jam into the trigger housing, and a bit of swearing. Took me a year and about 50 housings to figure out how dumb I had been trying to hold all three inside the housing with one hand and trying to insert the pin with the other. Last 30+ years it has been a snap.Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
I cut a piece of rod, can use a nail or anything the correct dia. Make it just the width of the trigger.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...Housing3-1.jpg
Assemble trigger, sear, and spring outside of the housing.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...Housing1-1.jpg
Drop into place and push short pin out with correct trigger pin.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...Housing2-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...Housing4-1.jpg
A cheap ball point pen with the guts pulled works on the trigger spring..... at least for 5 or 6 R and Rs.
An empty shell casing works better.
When I bought the trigger spring tools, at a show some time back now, they were $5 for the short and $7 for the long. Cash and carry no shipping, too cheap to pass up. Hasn't worn out, been used easily over 1,500 times.Quote:
Originally Posted by shadycon
I just looked up on ebay and Northridge has them for $20 plus $5.55 shipping. Their store for $19.95 save a nickle, big whup. Has higher shipping.
M1 CARBINE TRIGGER SPRING TOOL GI - eBay (item 310192118140 end time Mar-03-10 11:45:00 PST)
Northridge International Inc. / GUN CARE ACCESSORIES AND TOOLS.
And as shadycon says, correct size spent cartridge case is what, about a dime? But I find them too short and awkward for volume useage.
The manual gives a fairly good description of how to take it down without the tool, but the tool makes it easy. In any event, the M1 rifle is child's play by comparison. Soaking it and using an air hose is ignoring all of the carbon chips and debris behind those small springs. It should be completely stripped and properly cleaned if only to make sure the extractor plunger is put in correctly. Most of these bolts have not been cleaned in, what? 50 years? And that plunger is backwards on a lot of them.