Having laid on the mound and having used the the correct setup out and about as well compared to others it has no peer as an allround setup. Mind control controlling the index finger.
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Having laid on the mound and having used the the correct setup out and about as well compared to others it has no peer as an allround setup. Mind control controlling the index finger.
I use a similar procedure as Son uses. I generally get a crisp trigger that breaks at 4.5-5lbs with a 3.5lb pull up. My problem is finding spare triggers and cocking pieces that have not been screwed with. My goal on all my mil-surps is a 4.5lb trigger. The Swiss rifles are always way below that!
Gotta say here, I don't have a Lee Enfield that is outside the specs for trigger pull. Agreeing with Bindi here 100%!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bindi2
The trigger I wrote about above was on a .303/25 sporter belonging to a bloke who uses it in competition and in the field. Altering it so it suits his need was the job- he has the option of returning it if too light, but I won't go any lighter for any reason.
Madcratebuilder- you look to set all your rifles around 4.5lbs? What do the rest start at- out of interest sake
Mine is one of those new Australian rifles. I have no interest in keeping it new and pristine. I just want a good shooting rifle. It has a heavy barrel that I am thinking of getting fluted and I hate the trigger. I just want a decent trigger without too much messing about.
I'm almost afraid to take the damn thing apart, but will get arount to it some day.
One thing I have noticed is there is a ton of movement forward on the trigger. Is this normal on a LE? Or is there a spring missing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by roughneck12
It's not really a Lee Enfield, more a "modernised" sporter roughly built along lines of the Lee design. Can you take a picture of the trigger assembly without the woodwork fitted? Perhaps some of the guys can come up with suggestions to help you out.
Son,
Good point about getting the right bits. One of the things I discovered some years ago is that there are parts and "parts".
I suspect that a lot of stuff floating around has been "rescued" from scrap bins, where it had been consigned as out-of spec.
The drawings I have for SMLE and No4 parts show quite tight tolerances for dimensions and surface grades on working surfaces. There are definitely dodgy parts out there; I have had three cocking pieces fracture on rebuilt No4 bolts in the last four or five years. All seemed dimensionally correct and functioned properly; internal crystal structure was like granite! Basically, they had been "over-cooked" in heat treatment.
As for the AIA rifles, they employ the hung trigger system as per a No4 Mk2. Their trigger is a straight from the drawings of the Lithgow No1Mk3. Yes, you can mix SMLE and No4 triggers (with the usual caveats); also the sear spring is identical down to the part number. (As an aside, their receiver had all its critical internal dimensions lifted from an amalgamation of UK and Canadian drwaings, hence the "eclectic" array of features.)
Anyway, not having to fiddle about with the trigger guard makes setting up a lot easier. The drawback to this trigger system is that it reduces the stability of the fore-end, which, I suspect, is the main reason No.4Ts were not built on the later actions.
With all due respect to Mr. Laidler and what the British Armourers did to the Enfield rifle and what "WE" have to do are two completely separate and different things.
Trigger adjustments, if a British Armourer had more than .020 wood crush on the fore end below the receiver and trigger guard the fore end was replaced.
We are not going to throw away a stock for this reason so we need to learn how to adapt. If you notice the Canadians give us a "hint" about this in their No.4 manual and trigger guards that have been bent in the field to get better trigger pulls.
If you read between the lines on this you will understand, there are no more replacement fore stocks and you have to learn the work around for excess wood crush.
The manual states the Armourer might find bent trigger guards coming back from the field, and the Armourer "MAY" need to straighten the trigger guard to adjust the trigger.
If the fore stock has excess wood crush you are wasting your time trying to adjust the lobes on the trigger for the correct pull.
Here is a simple fact, if your fore stock has more than .020 wood crush and you shorten the trigger guard bushing or collar to keep the fore end tight you will need to bend the trigger guard to make up for the increased trigger guard angle.
What this means in plain English is this, if you don't bend the trigger guard you will NEVER get the sear in the proper position on the cocking piece. The problem is simple you are out of the adjustment range of the lobes on the trigger. You can work until you are blue in the face and you will NEVER get the lobes to the correct shape and hight. You will need to bend the trigger guard or go find a brand new fore stock, you pick which is easiest to do.
We don't have any fancy adjustment screws on our triggers to change any settings so you must learn to "adapt" to what you have. At the end of your first stage pull the sear should be at the bottom edge of the cocking piece and ready to "fall off the edge" when pushed by the second stage of your trigger pull.
If your sear stops too soon on the cocking piece, your second stage is going to be a "LONG" and "HARD" pull.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ggersear-1.jpg
Step one is getting your sear as near to the edge as possible and ready to "fall off the edge" with your second stage pull. AFTER your sear is at the edge of the cocking piece you can worry about changing the angle of the cocking piece and pull weights.
I have two 'new' No4 Mk2's that are 5lb+/-. The rest of the No4's ran from 3-8lbs, half had been messed with, eliminating the first stage. I hate that looong pull with no idea when it's going to break. I'm down to just two unmessed with No4 triggers...everybody's a gunsmith!Quote:
Madcratebuilder- you look to set all your rifles around 4.5lbs? What do the rest start at- out of interest sake
I would say that most of my mil-surps are 6-8lb as purchased. The exception is the Swiss K-31 and Zfk. 3-3.5lbs is the norm. I played around with a bench .22 and have it at 8oz.
There are mil-surp shoots at several local ranges and they well check trigger pull on you. All use a 4.5lb minimum rule. I'm much to cheap to buy an aftermarket trigger so I make do. Todays project is a unissued M48 Yugo that has a gritty trigger, pull weight is good, just has a catch in it's get along.
I'm all ears...;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
It was done on the ENVOYS I believe. Was it on the ENFORCERs too?Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
The business of adjusting the sear spring pressure can be a problem too.
Cutting an additional notch on the mag catch seems to be the standard method. A few folk also seem to have tried grinding the spring to narrower dimensions.
All well and good, as long as the spring still has enough "grunt" to force the sear back up the front bent of the cocking piece when you relax first pressure.
If it does not do that, you have a potentially dangerous situation. Applying the safety SHOULD draw the cocking piece back clear of the sear, allowing it to reset. Still not ideal by any stretch.
I suppose if one were "hard-core" enough, there is another possibility.
After ensuring all working surfaces are close to correct spec, get an industrial shop to HARD chrome the working surfaces (only) of the cocking piece, sear and trigger. Then carefully polish with diamond tooling for a seriously slick setup. Some "restorative" dimensional build-up is also possible, however, a thick layer of chrome is quite brittle and surfaces like the sear tip could crack with too much exuberant manipulation.
Just a thought.