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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastle
Should be 1 MOA (~1" at 100yds) clicks. So how did a No.32 scope end up on top of an L1A1?
---------- Post added at 12:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 AM ----------
Unless it's a No.32 Mk.I, then it has 2 MOA clicks for windage.
Isnt the L1A1 the designation for the scope on a L42A1 sniper, configured for the nato 7.62 round.
Quote:
Originally Posted by newbieDAN
Yes, but newcastle's post left the door open for misinterpretation, so...(I did restrain myself for about a day before getting silly!)
Newcastle, for your L1A1 deflection scale (and Mk2 and 3 scopes as well incidentally.....) should equate to 1 click will move the MPI 1 minute of angle (MoA) at 100 yards. OR 1" at 100 yards. The Mk1 deflection scale is different, giving 2 MoA or 2" at 100 yards.
The Mk3 and L1A1 grat block is spring loaded and there should be no backlash in its travel. It is simple to test this by aiming the telescope at a distant aimimg point (a DAP) and watching the pointer move left and right against the DAP while you rotate the turret thumbscrew.
You should do this test with the range scale set at 0 and 10 because the spring loadings change quite significantly beween these ranges
As a matter of interest, some L42's were disposed of with old obsolete .303" calibrated Mk1 and 2 telescopes as part of the CES. Not for any other reason other than a) they were floating around and had been stripped of some bits. B) a spare L1A1 was better han a gash Mk1 and c), I could do it!
Thanks Peter, This is a Mk3 turned L1A1. This scope is one you actually refurbed for Brian Dick a few years back, one of the L42 CES's that were sent to canada originally from disposal. Maybe I was just too clumsy with the turning the windage knob as it certainly sounds like one click should = 1inch at 100yards. I giuess it's an excuse to head to teh range this weekend.
Sorry about that. The advice was for your Charlie. One click should equal 1" at 100 yards with a Mk.2, 3 or L1A1 telescope.
Knocked this up to save scratching the drum from an old rifle tool dated 1959 with 10 minutes of fine filing, and does the job admirably once the outer ring is slackened off using the right hand tool, and then a nip to secure once zero'd.
It would of course be good to have both tools in one machined piece, but found this works fine