Rear Trigger Guard Screw Bushing

The recoil bolts are staked in. They most likley will not budge.

The stock recoil bolts are usually staked in place, removing them will destroy the threads,
unless you have a new set, you should not remove them.

You can remove them by center punching the flat side (opposite the bolt handle) and then drilling thru the head with a bit just slightly bigger than the bolt shank. When the head is free, you can drive the body out from left to right. New cross bolts are readily available.


If you don't have a spanner wrench, you can make yourself such a tool, just get a cheap screwdriver that you can live without and take your dremmel with a cut-off wheel and nibble out a notch in the middle. (this post is an redo/expansion of a previous post on this topic by others...)

Thanks Calif-Steve. I have never seen a stock bolt other than a picture and it looked to me like the "head" of the bolt was knurled to bite into the wood. I was thinking about backing out the stock bolt nuts, but if the bolts are knurled I would assume they would tear out some wood as they were pushed out and quite possible a lot of wood. Thanks, Rick

Thanks to all who offered advise on this problem. Getting the bolts out sounds like a possibility once I find new ones. Rick

Rick,
I am not the rules expert but here is the exact text from the CMP rule book under the heading of "As Issued 1903 Springfield)"

(5) The use of shims made of any material is prohibited. The presence of
fiberglass, epoxy, glue or any other filler is prohibited. Laminated stocks
and stocks made of synthetic materials are prohibited.

Technically, I would say that you would be out of luck by gluing. However, at a local level I would be surprised if anybody gave a hoot about fixing a crack. I think the spirit of the rule ( I think) is to prevent custom bedding resulting in better accuracy.

As for the cross bolts, they are almost always peened or upset at the nut to prevent backing out. I've only replaced one set and you need to plan on putting new ones in because the old ones will be ruined. I drilled out the head side (left) until the head came off, and then pushed them out L to R.

Hello,
Are you still needing this bushing? If so, I have one. If interested please email.
Thanks
Bob
bowhunter1903@aol.com

i made a milsurp stock repair using GORILLA GLUE, it was a pretty good size crack at the rear tang and the gorilla glue worked great, wet area that is to be repaired with a artist brush then force the glue into the damaged area, let set 48hrs , trim with exacto knife. that repair is as strong as the day i did it and i've put some stiff loads thru that eddystone.

Don't know about the tool. I do know the bolt is usually staked the the nut. You can make a nut driver by taking a stout, wide bladed screw driver and grinding/cutting out the center so it clears the bolt. You probably will have to grind off the staking with a Dremel or similar tool so you can remove the nut.