In the pictures, that stock looks like a "potbelly." Doesn't that make it a Type 5? But then it shouldn't have the rebuild marks, right? What am I missing? - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by pcaru1
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In the pictures, that stock looks like a "potbelly." Doesn't that make it a Type 5? But then it shouldn't have the rebuild marks, right? What am I missing? - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by pcaru1
USGI,
Yea I think you're right about the potbelly. All I know is I paid $20 for it and this is how it looks. I have Craig Riesch's book on carbines as my only source other than here and Google. We all know the history of most milsurp items is next to impossible to track. It would be nice if they all had provenance but, in my opinion, that's some of the allure of collecting. Thanks for bringing this info to my attention. In my zest for info I overlooked a basic feature.
Regardless, I am going to finish it and put it on my Underwood while hopefully saving the markings, if for nothing else, conversation.
I think you have a stock that was in Korea and has recently been stripped. I think the 'shadow' of a vertical rectangle on the buttstock is the remnant of a Korean marking. But it's a nice, legitimate stock anyway. First, before oiling, take some thin, watery Super glue and let it wick up into the wood in those cracks in the recoil plate area. Soak it in there over a period of an hour or so until saturation/refusal. The next day that area will be as rock. Then you can proceed to process the stock further. If mine, I would work on the dark areas a little more, then stain it. A few weeks after staining, I would begin to treat it with the RLO/flax oil and Turpentine in a 1:1 ratio. Dope the complete stock with it and set it in a hot shed or similar for a few days, then repeat until saturation/refusal. On the stain, be sure to use just a stain, no kind of sealer/finish. I think Chestnut Ridge has an alcohol-based 'Military' stain that works well.
What should I use on the dark areas?Quote:
Originally Posted by INLAND44