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"I can't wait to get some rounds down range with this thing"
Don't know your age or experience, but if you came up on the .223 Mouse Guns, be prepared for a blast when you shoot .30-06! Get a good spot weld and don't get your face too close to the back of the receiver :)
Not to worry, I have been shooting the Mosin-Nagant M44.
What did you mean by "spot weld"?
Your face postition on the stock comb.
"I can't wait to get some rounds down range with this thing."
Don't know your age or experience, but if you came up on the .223 Mouse Guns, be prepared for a blast when you shoot 30-06! Get a good spot weld and keep your face away from the rear of the receiver :)
I've put photos up on Flickr of the M1 field stripped, here is the link.
Amsdorf, one thing that will help you considerably is to purchase a few books. I would start with Duff's Red Garand book. It is about the best you'll find. Great read! Canfield's book is another one. Not as good as Duff's but it has a lot of photos. Welcome again and have fun!
Stock looks birch or beech which is typical for rebuilds. The front parts look wanut. You can probably find a used one here that will match. The rear sight is the latest and the follower is later type too. Op rod is also late. Doesn't look to be anything unusual here and as a shooter it will serve you well I think. Now, cartridge belt and bayonet. Clips.
If you are a righty, your right hand grips the small of the stock and your thumb is next to your face... press your cheek against your thumb between the knuckle and the joint. Your cheek bone should be between the two hard points and just above them. Press hard so that when the gun recoils, your head will simply rock back with it. A poor spot weld will allow the rifle to recoil and hit your face. I saw lots of recruits with broken eyeglasses and bloody noses :)
Ah, gotcha. Thanks, I definitely would not want my first session with my M1 to end in a trip to the emergency room for this problem.
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Clips, ammo and cartridge belt on order from/with CMP.
ETA? Not sure.
Oh, and a few hundred rounds of Greek ball ammo.
Everyone here is correct, out of the 23 garands I have there is movement in the front hand guard on all of them, including my type 1 and 2 national matches. As for the accurracy, it can and will be effected if the hand guard is to tight or to loose. If its to tight the harmonics of the barrel are thown off as its not allowing the barrel to flex and move the way it wants. To loose and it will rattle the end of the barrel during firing and can move point of aim easily. They learned the same thing about the cone flash hider seen on M-1C's. As long as the gas cylinder is snug, and the gas lock is fully turned to its proper position you will be fine.