Only the best. Bikkies and dip whilst warming single malt when finished.Quote:
Originally Posted by muffett.2008
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Only the best. Bikkies and dip whilst warming single malt when finished.Quote:
Originally Posted by muffett.2008
You MUST keep sunkorite stirred thoroughly, It goes shiny when it's left and the paint starts to separate. That's why it is shelf lifed. To be honest, I know some say that you can just reconstitute it by shaking or stirring the shi........., er....... life out of it but it ain't like that! I have been told that the chemistry of it is subtle and while you can mix and shake, you've got to KEEP it mixed thoroughly. I used to watch the sprayers painting vast conveyor lines of Brens, rifles, SMG's and GPMG,s and at every break, they'd swirl the paint guns. Shiney means that the paint is separating
Has anybody experience with suncorite 528?
I got a 1liter canister and want to respray some No4 parts.
What thinner does it need and is it also to bake in an oven (what temperature?)
Frank
Methylated spirit or Denatured alcohol, (US jargon), is the best for cleaning, thinning, etc. Stirring the paint well will cut down on the initial glossy finish. Baking the paint usually does away with gloss other than what an oily rag achieves when complete.
How long do you need to "Bake" it and what sort of temperature is needed?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dick
In North America, methyl hydrate is methylated spirits. Bilingualism at its best!!!
Or, good old North American gas line antifreeze. It is all methyl hydrate.
On the can it is spelled as suncorite.
400 degrees F for an hour.
Warren, I'm perplexed........... 'On the can it is spelled as suncorite'. Are you saying that Sunkorite is methyl hydrate - albeit in another form........... Surely............ or am I missing something or am I lost in the depths of chemistry?
I was doing some research the other day with the view to building my own bead blasting cabinet and came across this company Anglo Scot Abrasives they seemed to be quite good and well within the scope of a lot of the forumers on this site.
Gunsmiths and other finishers traditionally used a hot caustic bath, (sodium hydroxide) usually boiling. Some form of neutralizing hot wash to follow of course.
Easy enough to rig something up. if you want to do barrelled actions, use a large piece of pipe stood vertically if space is a problem. If you want to get clever, have a piece of say, 6 inch with a bottom welded on, then weld that inside a piece of 8 inch with no bottom obviously. Find a gas hob which has a ring that fits in the gap, add a lid to restrict heat loss from both tank and gap and 'have at 'er.'
Though the reality is that a horizontal tank is always easier to work with: how do you stabilize a vertical tank full of hot caustic after all!? (Hang it from the ceiling?)