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The rear most little "hook" on the firing pin extension was meant to be used for take down by looping a short length of string around it and pulling back on the firing pin while holding the bolt.
Chucks method of using the penny is easier since its hard to hold the bolt, pull back the pin and rotate the bolt sleeve all at the same time.
Regards,
Jim
Another thing that I want to do where I need a good vice, haha. They seem to be invaluable.
Thanks for the info, guys. I'll probably eventually get the bolt apart. I'm not too worried about it since it seems to function fine, but definitely will get it apart once I get a "real" vice.
Thanks again. :D
Attachment 30679or buy the Danish toolQuote:
Originally Posted by chuckindenver
or if i were really a smart ars,...buy my tool for 45.00, it works great...but the tool i used in the picture cost....1 cent...hard to beat that.
why guy try and re build the wheel is beyond me.
a modified Remington 700 cocking piece removal tool works well,
my goal on the hints and how to, is to help the avarage collector shooter with basic tools do the job, without spending money, or paying a gunsmith..
i have all those nice fancy tools, but most guys dont.
Sorry if I offended you - didn't mean to.Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckindenver
As I wrote, this is what I learned by the previous owner when I bought my rifle some 25 years ago and it seemed to be the easier way. He probably didn't know better and I obviously didn't either. Now I've learned something new - thanks.
Thanks for putting this up. I just got a 1917 this past Monday. This should help out quite a bit!
Jim
Can anyone tell me how to remove the extractor from the bolt? Is it the same as on a "normal" mauser bolt
Never mind, figured it out, pry up the front then push.
rotate left past the groove slide it off..
Hard-core buffs of M-17s and other US toys will have a copy of the Base Shop Data as published by Rock Island Arsenal. My copy says that it was reprinted in 1943 for distribution to British Forces by British Army Staff, North America.
It says:
With the safety lock forward, lift up on bolt handle and pull bolt to rear.
Push the safety lock all the way to the rear as shown in fig.2.
Close the bolt.
Insert a small piece of metal between the cocking piece and sleeve.
Pull outward on the bolt stop with the left hand and at the same time remove the bolt from the stock (sic).
Unscrew the firing pin assembly from the bolt by turning the firing pin assembly counte-clockwise.
Place the firing pin assembly on a bench as shown in Fig 2, and pull down on the sleeve.
Remove the piece of metal, give the cocking piece a quarter turn counterclockwise and remove.
Note that in the manual, the "piece of metal" is shown as a disc of approx 1 1/2 inch diameter and having a slot dimensioned to fit over the striker and cocking piece bents.
Howver, in the section on assembly, the manual refers to and illustrates a fixture, (Springfield Armoury tool drawing 28 RFB 4-3A1/2). This device is used to both "cock" the striker and hold it whilst the bolt body is wound onto the thread.
I have only recently scored this document, but I will scan the relevant pages and post them (or at least try).
Another interesting section is that on re-barrelling:
Basically, if the "new headspace was too long, lop of one thread's worth of length from the breech cone and shoulder and refit to receiver. Headspace? Whip out your reamer and bolt-shaped reamer guide and simply deepen the chamber to correct depth using your carpenter's brace to drive the reamer.
The whole manual is about 2 inches thick and goes up to 20mm cannons and 81mm mortars. Scanning and cleaning the whole thing will take a while; watch this space.