You don't need a pressure vessel, you do it under a vacuum bag and infuse the resin rather that bath it. Google "vacuum bagging" and "resin infusion" . And it still isn't a good idea.
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You don't need a pressure vessel, you do it under a vacuum bag and infuse the resin rather that bath it. Google "vacuum bagging" and "resin infusion" . And it still isn't a good idea.
Another idea to abtain vacuum. Here in Italy we close pasta sauce in vacuum condition . How ? Using a an ermetic glass, wich contain the sauce, boiled in boiling water. Changing sauce with fore end , mutatis mutandis, we obtain vacuum and resin infusion. Last problem to solve is to find an ermhetic glass 75 cm long to contain fore end.
I'm laughing..
Bow uts always good to see a discussion of new ideas and technology. There is a US company called Abatron which mkes a variety of products for the constrution industry.
Abatron Building and Restoration Products - Adhesives, Sealants, Coatings Epoxies. - Abatron, Inc.
I used the liquidwood to consolidate rotted wood fibers in some window sills at my mother-in-law's then the WoodEpox filler to patch areas that had deteriorated. Worked very well.
Maybe some the accomplished glass blowers in Venice could make you vessal :D
Regards,
jim
I'm looking for materials:
The problem here is RLO : of wood is too "soaked" there isn't much room for resin. Instead of a vassel i could use a vacuum bag, used in boat work. Between infusion resins, the better seems to be " cactus blank". Reading it's test, semms better thgan minwax and any other. Andisn't too expensive.
Another idea is to stabilaze draws wood , only, if the whole fore end is too soaked of RLO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JGaynor
Thanks for the link - that looks like just what we all need for tatty stocks! The problem will be to find it (or an equivalent) over here.
If the draws are unstable or rotten then cut out the draws and completely replace them (with epoxy soaked patches or not) as per Peter Laidlers articles: Milsurps Knowledge Library - Worn draws in your No1, 4 or 5 fore-end .... (by Peter Laidler)Quote:
Originally Posted by bow
How "unstable" is the forend really? Do you really think that you will seriously improve the hardness/stiffness/propensity to warp and twist by adding an impervious barrier to the outside of it? My guess is that you won't improve any of these properties at all.
Bear in mind that epoxy also is not ideal as a surface coating as most clear epoxy resins and products are not UV stable, as they are meant as surface prep products that are generally painted with epoxy or poly urethane paints. You can't varnish it either as the rule of thumb is "epoxy sticks to everything and nothing sticks to epoxy" (except epoxy and some other 2 pack products like poly urethane paint).
Vacuum bagging and infusing resin is a fantastic method of gluing, article fabrication and laminating in some applications, but it is not as easy as falling off a log. And this is not an ideal application for the methods anyway.
On the surface it sounds like a good idea, but to be perfectly blunt it just won't do what you want it to.
Just done! Patched draws as per Peter instructions. After i did some mistakes on my previous 3 enfield, this time things went well. When i'll need to re-patch the draws i'm thinking to use stabilized wood. It's possible to stabilize quite well small piece of wood. Isn't it?Quote:
Originally Posted by tbonesmith