Markings on 1943 Lithgow SMLE

Stumblebum, yes, that is the way it should fit. Just remember never pull the foreend away at the muzzle, always take it off at the rear first otherwise you will damage the draws.

As for the front trigger guard screw... it does next to nothing with regards to recoil unless the draws are loose... then it isn't the screw that has hold as the metal bush correctly fitted only allows .020" crush on the coachwood foreend by tightening the screw. (Yes, that figure appears in the fitting instructions, and there is a special jig/tool for measuring and filing the bush to the correct size.)
If there is movement at the draws then the next part the forrend has stopping it from moving forward is the bush. The foreend will not last long at all with the bush taking the force as the round surface acts as a a wedge and will split the foreend longitudinally from the bush forward.... tell you what. It's all a bit hard to fathom from descriptions, I'll do some pics and stick up hopefully in the next couple of hours.

First pic, the area of the front of the trigger guard, wood only, bush removed. Note the small area of wood around the screw/ bush hole where any clamping force would be concentrated
Attachment 44798

Second pic, the same shot, bush installed
Attachment 44799

Third pic, the same bush/ foreend from a low angle showing bush approx .020" below the wood line. The bush would be against the front trigger guard screw hole and the foreend would be in contact with the underside of the receiver ring and front of the magazine well, also the barrel knox. Locking the screw through the trigger guard will easily crush the foreend the .020" under screw pressure over the small area of contact until the screw bottoms out the trigger guard to the bush to the receiver. It cannot do any more!
Attachment 44800

Here's the same foreend. It never had the copper plates fitted. You can see the depressions either side of the middle where the sear lugs have contacted and impacted their way into the timber over time and firing. This shows the foreend relative to the action, does move forward under the forces of firing due to the barreled action moving back and the front hand holding the foreend against the recoil, which is mainly transferred through the butt to the firer. This damage can probably be minimised by pulling the rifle back into your shoulder with the right hand on the grip, and leaving the foreend sitting on your open palm... but that is just the way I shoot... others will have their own techniques proven for accuracy, but maybe not longevity of the foreend...
Attachment 44801

Next, back to the front trigger guard bush. Note the gap between the front of the bush and the foreend. This gap is almost as big as the indents where the sear lugs have compressed the foreend. The distance between the sear lugs and the bush is fixed- cannot change. So, whatever happens at the sear lugs, happens at the front trigger guard bush
Attachment 44802

Last pic... death of a foreend? No, it was doomed long before it got to this. The bush is now very slightly further rearward than the indents at the sear lugs. The combination of the bush not moving, the shape of the bush and the surrounding hole at the rear, and the loose fit at the draws means the forces absorbed at the bush have wedged it back in the hole and opened a crack forward the full length of the foreend
Attachment 44803

This rifle had always been locked up tight in the front trigger guard screw. In fact it was staked and very hard to release. It did have a little crush on the foreend, as prescribed, but that did not prevent what happened.
I suggest anyone who chooses to think otherwise regards the relationships of the parts discussed should conduct an experiment to prove these wrong.
1. Take the recoil plates out of your Lithgow foreend. ( This will simulate the gap giving loose draws like the pics above without actually damaging anything) :confused:
2. Ensure the front trigger guard bush does allow .020" crush on the foreend when the screw is locked up. :rolleyes:
3. Go and fire a hundred rounds of mkVII from the prone unsupported position. :eek:
4. Check if there is any forwards- rearwards movement in the foreend :yikes:
5. Check ebay for a new foreend. :crying:

Son: great post- I hope a lot of new No.1 MkIII/III* owners read it and apply the knowledge. I am dismayed by the number of Lee Enfields I buy that have serious to terminal forend damage- some that look virtually unused. Recently I bought quite a collectable MkIII that an enthusiastic shooter had owned and put a lot of rounds through without checking it out- beautiful old forend ruined. Of my couple of dozen Lee Enfields I see significant problems in about half. I have a couple that had very snugly fitting draws that were neatly sheared off in rifles that had very poor clamping at the front screw which is why I would humbly suggest that this aspect of fit is quite important. In fact, my next repair job is the forend on a No.4T that appears very lightly used with a gorgeous forend. Very snug fit at the draws but, unfortunately, a hairline shear on one side. Cause? I'm not sure but as purchased the collar at the front triggerguard screw was significantly too long and no clamping was happening.

Ridolpho

Wow Son, what a clear, thorough, and well illustrated explanation. Very helpful indeed. Now I have to agonize over how tight my lug-to-stock fit is. As you can see, there aren't huge depressions beaten into the stock by the lugs at the moment. But is that from a tight fit; or simply because the rifle hasn't been fired a million times? Or has some of the rifle's furniture been replaced at some point?

Which brings me back to the two unfamiliar markings on the stock... Anyone? Anyone?

To err on the side of caution I will no doubt keep my eyes open for opportunities to get some recoil pads or have some made, simply to help insure the longevity of the gun. In the meantime, I'd certainly put a few rounds through it at the next opportunity just to see how it shoots!

If I were you Stumblebum, I woul;dn't waste time with recoil blocks. I'd just cut out the old worn out draws and fit a newsection, made from oak. BUT with the grain running down the angle of the draws in the body. This patch will still be there, working well in another 100 years.

You'll find a pictorial thread of how to do this elsewhere. Will take about an hour or so

The reason I say this is that the mere notion of holding recoil blocks securely in a fore-end with small brass screws that screw into the end grain of wood is just alien to my miniscule understanding of woodwork

Peter: Intriguing, and it makes a fair amount of sense. I hadn't run across any of those threads yet, but I will take up a pointed search on the topic now - thanks!

Any chance you have a clue what my "mystery markings" are?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

If I were you Stumblebum, I woul;dn't waste time with recoil blocks. I'd just cut out the old worn out draws and fit a newsection, made from oak. BUT with the grain running down the angle of the draws in the body. This patch will still be there, working well in another 100 years.

You'll find a pictorial thread of how to do this elsewhere. Will take about an hour or so

The reason I say this is that the mere notion of holding recoil blocks securely in a fore-end with small brass screws that screw into the end grain of wood is just alien to my miniscule understanding of woodwork

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Peter not all of us are blessed with being able to just pick up a piece of oak and fit it in the draws. Customs have a strong idea on what we can bring home in our cases hence the copper plates and brass screws. Modern compounds will be the only way to repair these old girls in time. I know i know lost skills etc etc.

Here's an idea Bindi.......... Get over to TBones wood yard. He knows a bit about carpentry, cabinet making and building ships from wood! Ask him for a nice chunk of Aussie hardwood that you can use. Tell him that it must have a nice dense grain and be compatible to modern wood adhesives.

I'll let you into a little secret.............. That's just what I did when I wanted a bit of Australian hardwood to make a set of 1.5:1 No5 bayonet grips for a display 1.5:1 scale bayonet at the Infantry HQ oiver the road from my office. That's the new one on my avtar - the old No5 one is inside!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Here's an idea Bindi.......... Get over to TBones wood yard. He knows a bit about carpentry, cabinet making and building ships from wood! Ask him for a nice chunk of Aussie hardwood that you can use. Tell him that it must have a nice dense grain and be compatible to modern wood adhesives.

I'll let you into a little secret.............. That's just what I did when I wanted a bit of Australian hardwood to make a set of 1.5:1 No5 bayonet grips for a display 1.5:1 scale bayonet at the Infantry HQ oiver the road from my office. That's the new one on my avtar - the old No5 one is inside!

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T Bones is on the east coast so no can do, local quarantine. We have some hardwood on the west coast that you can not drive a nail into without pre boring the hole. The older and dryer it gets the harder it gets to work like chisels and planes dont cut the mustard as they say. Angle grinders are the go or blades with tungsten tips on the grinder. Only other problem with it it twists and skrinks as it drys unless cut well. How do i know this we use it for grating in shearing sheds so you put it down on the green side for ease of work. Have used 20+ yr old battens never again.

What do you mean he's on the other side of Australia................ I've just looked at my map and it's only about 7 inches

I take the point though........ The trouble with REALLY hard wood is that the stuff just won't accept/take the adhesive and it just won't adhere....

Peter the Aussies actually used hardwood inserts for a short period of production. I think it was walnut and I have a few examples. Any walnut around your parts bindi?