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Dont think so Peter. The seer fouls even with no wood on it. Looking at my no4 mk2 I can see the seer looks a noticable amount higher, it woud be a big chisel mark to correct that. The "forged" serial number on the bolt is enough for me to return it I think, I mean if its got these 2 nasties what else is there. If I'd paid only a little I'd strip it for parts, as I need a good barrel but a $700 loss I can ill afford.
If I cant get a return, and get stuck with it. Is it OK to remove the barrel and re-use it in another rifle? My understanding is they were chambered before fitting. I have a no4 mk2 with a docked barrel so I could re-use this full length barrel in this case.
You are right. Barrels were made, chambered before fitting and being rimmed the CHS is taken from the front face of the barrel too which rarely wears away - if ever! If it is a good barrel then it is quite valuable as I understand it, not being a dealer or trader in any way and never ever having had to buy one either! But before you set about rebarrelling your Mk2, make sure that you read up about the process because meny of the enthusiastic amateurs who do this work are, er.......... How do I say this? Ah, yes..... '....Have been found wanting'!
I just talked to the guy, he seems certain his gunsmith will repair it so I'm returning it in the morning. ive said I dont want it back, he advertised it as a serial number 18Lxxxx no L on the bolt at all, no L on the wrist as something impacted the L "deleting it", I dont think he can argue around that in a small claims court. So if we cant agree we'll be in there, see how it goes, it will cost me $35, another life experience...nothing like learning!
[re-]Barreling isnt in my league, I'd take it to a gunsmith and get him to do it, I wouldnt think it would take 2 hours, so a couple of hundred $s.
Yes barrels are rare now, Ive searched high and low, if I'd paid not much I'd wear the loss and use it on my good mk2...ah well.
Thanks for your advice, appreciated.
Steven
ssj, was it this one?
Lee Enfield No4 Mk1* Long Branch. 5 Groove. | Trade Me
I would just concentrate on the fact that the body is worn out, as indicated by the fact that the sear binds on the free running of the bolt. What'll eventually happen is that the hard locking lug will chip the cocking bent of the sear and that'll chomp up the face of the cocking piece. Seen plenty of 'em!
yes that is the one.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5thBatt
---------- Post added at 09:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:50 AM ----------
Hi, thanks I have posted it back, the description of excellent doesnt gel with "the fact that the body is worn out, as indicated by the fact that the sear binds on the free running of the bolt." but he seems to think will repair, or he says he might refund lets see how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
I'd be interested to learn how the sear can sit too high. A worn bolt channel is one thing and that's measurable but if the sear is too high, what causes that?
303guy. It is caused by, well........, wear! As soon as ypou draw the fired bolt back as soon as the sear, under rotating tension from the sear spring clears the sear face of the cocking piece it flicks UPWARDS in order to engage the cocking piece on its forward loading motion. As the sear flicks sharply upwards it's travel MUST be stopped otherwise it'd just carry on spinning. So this further rotation is prevented by the sear stop face inside the body.
Naturally, this sear stop face gets a battering EVERY time you open the bolt. And as a result gets worn - or hammered down. As I said, there IS a staking repair but only once.
Have a look inside the body of your own rifle to see the action of the sear and what prevents it from rotating too far. Too far and it will do all the things I said.
Has that answered the question? Good question by the way...........
Thanks Peter. I have two or three 1896 MLE's and they show no such wear, same with all my others. Then again, they may not have been fired all that much.