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MAB is now TSE engineering and a barrel off them and getting it fitted will make your eyes water. Its also 6 groove and yes lacks the baynot lugs, they will also do it in SS for $150AU more.Quote:
Originally Posted by CINDERS
I was quoted $950NZD+ for a moly barrel.
:eek:
regards
I see that Lothar Walther are doing replacement barrels for Model 98 Mausers and g96 Swedish Mausers for $270 US. Have just sent them an e mail asking if they have plans for SMLE and No 4 barrels.
As I understood things, the bayonet lug was to be included with the new production barrels. One thing that just came to mind was if the barrel would be unfinished. I don't recall any information on that.
---------- Post added at 12:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:27 AM ----------
Peter,
I'm not even sure where to begin to find UK Military Mk7 ball ammo around here. The ammo I tested with was Prvi Partizan Ammunition 303 British 174 Grain Full Metal Jacket Boat Tail. I had heard that people have had good results with this ammunition in their rifles compared to other manufacturers ammo.
Thanks Peter I will go an see my local machinist and have one turned up but we are not realy fortunate in our state in W.A with very few gun shows and super strict gun laws the toughest in Australia so it is like buy one off used guns from the eastern states or wait till we have the Cannington shows 2 times a year even then you are dam lucky to even see a firearm for sale.
And allot of gun shops do not carry the ol'girls now it is sorta from the club scenes you acquire them and then some of the fun and mystery is gone as you know the bloke and the weapon so not much adoo there you may have even shot it so theres even less mysterious discoveries to be made.
I went to a dealer probably 4 years ago and I knew a Mk III had been sitting in the same spot in the corner for like 30+ years I had seen it as a 14 year old so I asked Tony would he sell it he said yes but only for a $1,000.oo.
When you think I picked up my 5 MD '16 Lithgow Mk III with mag cut off I know I think they were deleted prior to this but mine is A star stamped for only $100 you gotta be kidding for that price Tony.
(I have put more $'s into the '16 with a correct mag & A star stamped dumbell safety spring and catch '16 5 MD '07 Lithgow + scabbard and have just purchased a Wright Black '16 sling so she's all done....yay) :dancingbanana:
I will say one thing for all old and new to milsurps members or moderators the advice offered by some of the well trained and experienced armourers like Peter Laidler is not often freely given as it is from him which shows an underlying passion for things to be just so and so they shall Peter 3 cheers for you bloke...... :clap: :beerchug:
Gyro you are better off loading the gear yourself I was using some 67 POF Mk VII gear and trully I thought I was back in a civil war with a delayed firing sequence you know click, bang and sh*te exiting from the barrel like confetti and the exclamation now where did that go, I tried it for like 50 rounds and gave up they are all gone now never to be used again.
I also boiled the barrel after them not knowing what the Indian manufacturer used for primers........
Sellior Bellot has absolute crud brass head seps after 1 reload and not just the one shooter at our club as they all could not have had large chambers I had similar fate with the greek brass I just use the R.P stuff 5-6 reloads is about it and they are well priced.
Besides some of the Mk VII stuff is collectable like MW 42 (Welshpool W.Australia) is fairly hard to find the Mk VI stuff whilst I would not shoot it is getting up in price as well per round.
I use R.P brass too and get great case life. And I find the Sierra 174 Gn HPBT matchkings are great at the range. I've had good results with Hornady 174Gn FMJ's also.
I would love to source some prefit No4 barrels.
Lothar Walther .303 barrel blanks (machining for a Nr. 4 barrel would be extra)Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert303
Lothar Walther
I do not know how the future will pan out for mil shooters as the cache of original barrels starts to dry up its not panic buying its just the stocks are running out and those that have the gear are keeping them for the future. I have enough for my son who is 14 y/o to continue for his shooting career but a lot of years in the making. I managed 10 years ago to get a complete Mk III standard profile barrel but they are pretty scarce now. It has been an epic and endless hours trolling sites and getting into trouble not having a 709B form for that barrel that was a close squeek but all was good in the end. So I really do not know what the future holds for the 303 's or the K-98's etc as we are just going to have to go with non genuine parts to continue having our fun.
I saw an unfired Mk III H barrel $450.00AU and one with 50 rounds through it H Mk III for $300.00 and the prices of stocks and ancillary parts has skyrocketed I am so glad I started a while ago hedging though the woods are the issue if you want genuine and have a full wallet.......
Keep the faith and enjoy milsurps as I sure am......
We can only hope that someone can persuade a barrel manufacturer that it is worthwhile making exact replica barrels. In theory this should not be too difficult BUT when it comes to putting up the money the problems start. I am now off in search of drawings for a SMLE +/ No4 barrel or a shot out barrel to see if anything can be done. However NO promises and don't hold your breath.
I'm not a production engineer but a Mech Eng....., a sort of everything-thrown-in sort of grad! But to be really honest, in my opinion, making a straightforward No4 barrel is an absolute piece of cake. A REAL doddle once you have a hammered/rifled bore. The thread doesn't need to be indexed......... why? It indexes the knocks form (the KF) and the foresight block and believe me, after re-barrelling hundreds, you'll soon learn that the KF ain't the bee all and end all of, well, anythuing except a tightening mechanism!
This is what you do.......... You make the complete barrel between centres on a CNC copy lathe, as-is but LESS the KF, extractor slot and foresight block band and bayonet lugs (FBB&BL). Then you fit it to the rifle, calculate the underturn, machine/cut the extractor way and approx position of the KF and breech-up tight.
You leave the last 3.5" or so - fron the rear of the FBB&BL forwards .030" undersize and then, when the barrel is breeched up, slide on and soft solder in place a pre-made (or old original) FBB&BL sleeve. Align exactly on glass sheet as per Armourers method of breeching up. Cup-chamfer the muzzle end and that's it.
Well, that;s it in a couple of paragraphs. Obviously there's more to it than that but if you want to complicate it, then feel free but where there's a will, there's ALWAYS a simple way.
Not original with an invisible muzzle sleeve section.........? It's not an original barrel in any case. But better than the scrap heap you took off!