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Those sealed 600 round cans go for around $400+ each. I'm not sure on the 30-06 rounds. I would think $1200 for the lot was reasonable.
Staked piston nuts taken out wrong can bugger up the threads. That is why I don't recommend the piston wrench. If stuck you can usually soak it or fire it a few times and it will break loose. I use the trigger spring tool because it is at a 90 degree bend and easy to hold, made of metal and I keep it with my bolt tool. When I bought them they were $4. As mentioned, the head space gauges if you have multiple carbines. If someone does, then they probably will wind up changing a barrel somewhere down the road. That was why I mentioned Go and No Go. And for that matter, if you are going to change a barrel, you will need the front sight tools, and a receiver wrench as well. Everyone should have a good screwdriver set. Proper fit in the slot keeps you from twisting it. I think Cabela's sells a good set. And there are other tools, just expensive and seldom used.
Like anything, you can go overboard for what you will actually use.
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i figured i could keep the 30 carbine and sell the rest for what i paid for it. don't forget the buyer's premium is 17% - 19% which makes this at least $1400 + shipping and handling. surely no one is actually shooting this stuff. you can buy aguilla for 40 cents/rnd.
frank
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I seldom have problems assembling the sear in the trigger, but it happens occasionally. I don't use the trigger spring tool anymore either. After the trigger is in place, I start the pin, but not enough to block the sear from dropping in place. Drop in the sear spring and then drop in the sear. I then use the hammer to engage the end of the sear (just like it normally does in operation) and push the sear back into place enough so the trigger/sear pin will go through. I keep a finger over the top of the sear because it will pop out if you don't. Using the hammer to set the sear is essentially the same thing as inserting the hammer and pushing the hammer pin through. The sear has to be engaged by the hammer so the hammer pin will go in. Just in my usage I do it for the trigger/sear pin too.
