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Hey, new member here but I kinda have become a Mosin Superfreak over the last 6 months. I would not touch it, and definitely not apply some modern Shellac. From the limited pictures I see- you may have a true "matching number" non-refurb. The buttplate and barrel serials are complete and look like the correct matching fonts. If the bolt and mag look the same you have a real gem. Would be a shame to devalue it with restoration not preservation.
I'm giving it a few days to cure up with what I've got on it before I start putting more on. My plan is to put a few more coats of BLO on with longer between them.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...03/large-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...03/large-2.jpg
[img]hthttps://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...03/large-3.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...03/large-3.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...03/large-4.jpg
This a typical refurb, stripped of the peeling shellac, bleached, stained with dye and oil-finished to simulate a red shellac-like finish. The wood was not sanded.
Below is what the 'original' finish looked like.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...03/large-5.jpg
YMMV. Decide what you want and then do it. Best wishes. Dave
Looks awesome Dave! That's an oil rub? What kind of oil did you use?
Birchwood Casey Tru-oil, a kind of varhish which is very durable and resistant to bore cleaner. This rifle was finished with several coats, applied with 0000 steel wool, wiped with clean rag immediately after application and allowed to dry completely between coats. You could use Tung Oil to achieve similar results. Boiled Linseed Oil does not build as quickly and is not as durable when completed.
30 coats!! Wow. I suppose it's easy to apply? I guess if I was the OP, I'd keep with the same finish. There might be problems with compatibility with other types.
OK. I'm used to the more amber look that Tru-Oil gives. I used it on a stock I reworked for my boys' 22. Good stuff and leaves a nice finish on it, for sure.
I'm also kicking around gun wax over the BLO for a little more luster once I get the BLO to where it's good to go. From what I understand, I could throw the TO on top of the BLO, I would just have to make sure and give the BLO time to cure properly.
If I do a refurb on a refurbed one at some point, I might get with you on the die you used if you don't mind. Not sure what my next "project" will be, but another Mosin is on the radar at some point, be it a 91/30, M44, or maybe even a T53.
You don't need 30 coats to get a "shine" with BLO. Half a dozen or so will get a nice finish that has a bit of a sheen to it once rubbed down and polished. This is the level I go to get most of my firearms. I just went further with the two 91/30's partly to see if it could be done and the wood on these doesn't take a shine as easily as the woods from most other nations.
I have to disagree there MC. Tru-oil looks pretty on a sporting rifle until you actually use the rifle at which point the high gloss top coat rubs right off. I could go on a rant but I'll just say Tru-oil is not an appropriate finish for any military stock.
IMO, if one is refinishing a 91/30 use shellac why? because the Russians used.... Shellac!! Or for a more subdued look "which I prefer" use BLO. Whatever one chooses remember the durability and longevity of the finish depends on wood preparation so do your best to remove as much Cosmoline as possible....
The only way to keep it as close to the original finish as possible is to leave it alone, if you want to refinish it, sell it to somebody that doesn't. Why turn a unique rifle into something worthless and run of the mill just like the rest?