Printable View
Nice shooting Lou! You know the order that these were made - what do you make of the diagonal pattern? (am thinking "wheel of pain" type feedback). It would be interesting if you included the shooting position, timing of shots (rapid / slow etc) and any load info with weather conditions..
Here are some of the links (from searches) mentioned earlier...there may be more..
How to sling the No4 Mk1(T)
Using the British canvas sling for shooting purposes.
um, my front sight went lose last time at 600yds, I think I might have got a 1 on the wrong target......LOL...
:madsmile:
regards
By the way, iIt is considered that the two point sling using the front and "sniper" type ring as mount points causes less flexing of the forestock. Not sure if this is true but here in NZ there seems to have been a "standard" tuning method of replacing the lower forestock with a harder, stiffer wood.
Could you develop, please?HTML Code:"wheel of pain"
I did that in prone position, with a 1907 sling. I was training for an official competition, opened to service rifle.
Rules are simple :
5 rounds for trial, 5 minutes.
10 rounds 7mn (the picture)
10 rounds 3mn
No scope to verify the impact during the 2 series of 10 rounds, that's why I drifted in the "7" without being able to say when was it.
I'm only working on the improvement of the ammunition, my rifle is like out of the box.
My .303 are made with: case PPU, balls PPU "selected, (weighted mainly) 174gr, primer CCI200, powder N150 vitha vuori 2.70g (41.6gr), speed 710m/s (2329ft/s). I also use Tu 5000 (French powder) that's why the POA may change.
My training emphasis the technic, I practice a lot of dry shots (I save money and I'm focusing on technic).
Thank you for the links, I will look forward for a king swivel in a near futur.
Cheers
Hi Lou.
The front trgger guard swivel will help a great deal - as per the "T" models and instructions - all of my No4's respond well to that an a firm front hand grip - my P14 likes a lighter grip and butt swivel hasty sling in prone.
With the target as shown and the load that produced it, I would adjust up 3 clicks on the Mk1 sight and use a BDC hold. I would term both groups of 10 as slow fire and would do a closed eye test every shot or other shot to check alignment of position. Are you shooting from a full mag, or an empty mag with charger loads? The latter need practice not breaking the forearm position (especially elbow location) while loading - how many times do you observe two groups of 5 to substantiate this?
The "wheel of pain" is a target that gives coaching ideas by direction of pattern, if all good practices and other variables are well (thats a long list) - but its still only a guide! Most prolific are the pistol versions - the rifle ones are rarer - and both are handed... I have to dig my good copies out..
The basic one (not considering sling and assuming right handed) would indicate that moving up and left can be follow through or flinching, if it is moving down and right it indicates that it could be a trigger jerk or a forehand issue - elbow not under the rifle, grip too tight.
I believe there is a version that includes the effects of the sling.
All IMHO - hope this helps!
None of them, we have to shot two series of 5 rounds. It means that we have to reposition after the reloading.Quote:
Are you shooting from a full mag, or an empty mag with charger loads?
I'm not working so much on the hand grip, at least, there is a way of improvement.
Thank you L1A1 breakdown for this "debriefing". Next time I go to the range, I will go with a copy of this post and I will apply.
I'll keep you advise of my improvements.
Cheers