As stated, it does. Provided it's going to be easy. That's what Ridolpho was referring to giving him trouble. I guess we'll see.
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A trick I use is to wind the firing pin in further, exposing the thread, sometimes if the pin is not flush, but exposed, the threads get peened over, making it very difficult to unwind.
A quick wipe with a file, then unscrew the pin.:thup:
It is not just the thread that can be tight.
There is a little parallel section forward of the thread in the cocking piece and just forward of of the threaded end of the striker. These parallel surfaces were machined to VERY close tolerances and are actually what keeps the two parts in line during all of the bashing around of cocking and firing..
Any corrosion in that parallel region or on the threads will make disassembly "interesting". It may take a few weeks in penetrating oil or plain old diesel fuel to persuade them to separate without destroying your tools.
Thank you all for your responses. I have not received the tool yet. I'll keep you posted on the results.
Jon
Get yourself one of Ian Skennerton's Small Arms ID Series booklets on the SMLE. It has the Illustrated Parts Catalogue copied with PROPER parts nomenclature. It makes life easy for you and the poor sod trying to pick parts for you when in need! They are the big pricey sum of $10!!
Gentlemen,
The bolt tool arrived today. I removed the striker keeper screw, removed the bolt head, and the striker unscrewed without any problems at all. A typical case-book example. Thank you all for your responses.
Jon