Not a series 30, 20 best I can tell. It needs everything. I'm probably not going to seek out the mono-pod or the bolt cover and might go with just the slide for the rear sight.
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Not a series 30, 20 best I can tell. It needs everything. I'm probably not going to seek out the mono-pod or the bolt cover and might go with just the slide for the rear sight.
My bad, misread. 20 would most likely have been issued with wings then.
Looked it up and the series 20 had all the early features.
Polished the barrel today and most of the ground mum but did leave some. I did discover that they did not enlarge it for the 30-06 shells so the magazine doesn't work for more than two. Trying to locate some information on what needs to be done there but haven't had any luck yet.
You can Find some information out of Kuhnhausens book the Mauser rifle and P.O. Ackley wrote of it as well but without the illustrations for clarity. Adjusting the break over and movement of cartridges when coming up through the well by observing the magazine rail taper vs its affect on cartridge taper polishing adjusting follower guide rib can be tricky stuff. I'll leave it to them, but I'm curious it'll only hold two?
I haven't put live rounds in it so I'm not exactly sure if the problem will correct itself with live ones. I have Swedish dummy rounds and they have the indented sides. I do not think that is the whole issue as the cartridges are just to long. The bullet tips catch on the lip of the front of the magazine well. The rear of the cartridge will go in and down at a steep angle after more than two are inserted. At this angle, the bolt just slides over them without catching on the rim to chamber the round. The cartridge hold downs also won't work at this angle so the third and fourth more or less just float around in the magazine but won't lift into the proper level. Probably cutting the front of the magazine well and polishing out part of the receiver well would do the trick.
The 7.7 is a little larger at the head than the 3006, thats why it is hard to follow the chamber with a reamer accurately by hand. The 30.06 is larger at the shoulder than the 7.7 so it takes up more space in the magazine well especially with the follower guide rib being a little wider than the 30.06 case will allow in a slimmer box. When loaded with 30.06 this will shove the rounds against the magazine well walls differently every time it is loaded to the side making drag with the cartridges and follower with spring wiggling around underneath and will be deceiving when you observe it to gauge the relationship of the works. If you begin by removing to much metal from the receiver rails errantly you will get stovepipe jams every third 2nd or 3rnd manipulation of the bolt. The follower in my opinion is the key to getting it to smooth up and can be easily replaced when booger-ed on accident. You can even find a replacement from like a k 98 and weld and grind to get them rolling up there smooth with some ingenuity. Maybe some one knows a trick that will work right off with minimal effort. 8 mm-06 conversions are similar and work good 8 mm case the same bit smaller-at the head so narrower guide-rib at the rear. 7.7 is 3.000 long at 174gr. most 30.06 is a tad bit longer at 150gr. but Hornady shows a 30.06 rnd. load at 3.000 that should solve length problems till you get everything working. I would strip bolt parts and use factory rounds with care or test dummies to spec to determine the relationship. chop those swede dummies to length unless their valuable to you to get that part out of the way. I built a sporter jap once for fun that had a 30.06 reamer ran into it. It ballooned case heads that were difficult to see by eye but were safe with factory ammo. I just could not get past the idea and scrapped it but kept the stock and small parts. I would like to fill that stock up with a 7.7 action and barrel but it would have to be in 7.7 now to eliminate what we are now discussing. There 's something about them (japs) though that makes me keep looking at them from time to time. Good Luck!
I'd have to agree and say it would be nice to have a T99 example in your collection that you can actually shoot without breaking the bank. Sounds like it will need a lot of work and money, but if you want it, I think it would be worth it in the end. If your just trying to get your money back out however, I wouldn't hesitate to scrap it for parts. Plenty of nice guns out there that just need one or two parts to get back in action, so it wouldn't really be a waste either way
I think I solved the 30-06 problem. Found another barrel in original caliber cheap.
Moneypit
Aaragon, Way to go on the 7.7 barrel. I was hoping you could find an original barrel. I've had a couple of T99s in 30-06 and they were nothing but a pain. There's too many issues that make this a lousy conversion. Way to go-- SaltFlat