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Ugh, I wish I had the funds for a full treatment! That's going to be part of my hurdle. I can take my time and get the wood and small parts to get it operating, but a complete refinish I would imagine would get a bit pricey for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
The full treatment doesn't need to cost an arm and a leg, first thing you need to do is get the metal work in some kind of order, I'm a firm believer in the electrolysis method of getting a good proportion of rust off, simple, cheap and very affective.
With this you need a plastic container, for a barrelled action you could use guttering with two end caps, a 12 volt battery charger, a piece of scrap metal and some washing powder......
As for bead blasting if you do not have access to a compressor etc then look around for someone who does blasting or wheel finishing, parkerizing is quite straight forward and your in the right part of the world to get some of the Brownells solution.
The paint is probably the hardest thing to come by over there (Suncorite 259) as for woodwork, still a lot of No4 NOS woodwork to hand, I've plenty of hand guards if you need one.
OK, you've got me intrigued. I had essentially wrote of the "full treatment" due to cost. So, let me ask some questions.
How does one fix/repair the pitting? Or do you?
What is the appropriate coating? As mentioned, the Suncorite isn't something I'm likely going to be able to find. I'm not sure what Peter is talking about with the phosphate coating or if it can be done around here. There are some guys that do Cerakote that I might be able to get to do the oven work, but I'm not sure what other options I might have in that regard. Bead blasting I'm not sure about. I have access to a blaster and could use walnut media, but not sure if I've got connections to do bead without having to pay or not. I'd also have to look at cost of the materials
The metal is my big concern, I can go from there as far as what to do with the wood I think. I can strip and steam out the dents, then replace the part that's been chipped off. I know raw linseed oil in a heated tank is original from some past readings of Peter's, but BLO has been my go-to substitute.
Somehow I knew this would turn into more than some work on the wood. LOL
Before we had facility we rented space at a stone work that carved headstone...their blasting cabinet was monumental... :madsmile:
Don't use walnut, use glass beads. Pits CAN be filled in with wire feed weld, but I'd look long and hard at it before deciding to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catch22
1) The pitting is there for good, its just a way of cleaning it up and stopping further corrosion.
2) bead blasting you will need a hard medium, aluminium oxide or fine sand
3) Electrolysis is a cheap way to remove surface rust etc you will be impressed with the results. just saves some time in the blasting cabinet.
4) Phosphate same as parkerizing.....
5) Paint, I don't know what you have over there but others may know of something similar,
6) Raw linseed and BLO, one dries quicker than the other (BLO) it has additives to speed up the drying time, old BLO was basically boiled by hot air.
Some links to show the electrolysis effects on rust etc,
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=54108
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=50556
Phone Brian at BDL in SC, (he's on this site) ask him to look at the photos and then ask him to give you a quote for bead blasting the steelwork, phosphating and painting. You fully strip it and carefully assemble it afterwards. It's easy!
The rust removal is with the blaster. The future rust preventer is the phosphate treatment and the protection is the paint. Assuming that you aren't going to use the rifle in the monsoons or fight in the mangrove swamps of Johore in Malaya, a good quality oven bake exhaust paint will probably do. The old lady deserves better than a cat lick I say!
I appreciate the info and got with Brian a little bit ago. Looks like I'm going to have to do some saving to pull off the full treatment on it. I'm sure it'd be well worth it, just outside the budget limits at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
I'm going to do some debating on where to go for now. I hate to do too much getting it shootable without doing something to finish and protect it. Maybe at least get a start on it and try the electrolysis to get the rust stopped and keep it oiled until I get the funds up.
It looks like the handguard retaining ring is missing. The only way to get one onto the barrel intact is to remove the front sight base which may or may not involve a some type of press and a bit of profanity. I've had the pleasure of doing this twice and if I had to do it again I think I'd just snip the bottom of the ring and weld or braze it back together once it was coaxed over the barrel.
You're correct, it is missing. Not looking forward to that now. LOL May try your brazing trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve H. in N.Y.
Cutting and brazing the new handguard ring is perfectly acceptable. In fact, the last thing you want to do is remove the flash hider.