I agree...Meggar makes good mags. Promag also makes them but I've had less than stellar results with theirs.
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Buy the Italian mags from CDNN. You will be happy.
That is what I'll do, can always use extra mags. I just measured the bullets. They are 1.156", a couple reloading books I have say they should be 1.100" with 115gr FMJ. I'm going to try and pick up a couple different bullets (115gr and 124gr) tomorrow if they have any. I just started reloading last winter, haven't loaded any 9mm or 45 auto yet, just 45 Long Colt, 32 auto and 38 Special. Getting my brass together for this winter.
Put the new springs in the Luger and finally made it to the range. It worked great with the #maglug mags except the action wouldn't stay open after the last shot most of the time. The original worked OK (still feels like the bullets are binding) but a bullet would stand up instead of chambering one round per loaded mag and once it ejected the empty brass and a good round at the same time. While I had it apart I removed the recoil lever. The pin wouldn't slide through it easily so I went over the hole with a phillip screwdriver and kind of deburred it and it went in and moved freely. Also the outside of the recoil lever felt rough so I filed it to smooth it out. Any idea how to get the action to stay open with the #maglug mags? The button is thinner than the original and rounded on top.
That's such a fidgetty little part that you'd have to make a new one. Adding to it would be a nightmare. Making one on a lathe would be simple though...
'Yooper's' magazine is nicely serial numbered to his Luger. Is this a post-WW1 replacement magazine, with its aluminum base?
Wouldn't an original 1918/WW1 Luger magazine have a wooden base? (Not being picky & critical. That's a nice family bring-back. Just curious).
I have a nice 1917 Erfurt Luger with a mismatched Nazi marked aluminum base.
Thanks for info about the magazine, I didn't know the base was originally wood. I was wondering about the 20 stamped under the side plate and on the frame. Also should there be a serial number on the barrel? How does it look over all? Thanks again for all the info on this.
Probably no serial on the barrel, it can't be stripped and separated. The number on the bottom of the chamber is the bore diameter. I'm thinking the "20" is an inspection number.