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Lots of info. I have my Linseed oil and when I get home tonight I will run a piece of paper under the barrel. And check it beforehand to see if the muzzle is hitting the top hand guard.
Hopefully the oil can somewhat restore the shape. The gun is otherwise as new and I hate to go hacking on something so original.
If I remember correctly, the barrel sits about 1/8 of an inch from the forend at the muzzle. I will take some pics and post them.
Sound advice, I restored an Enfield P1856 a couple of years ago, the wood had pulled away from the barrel in it was so dry and black with conjealed oil and dirt.
But after it was carefully refubished and linseed oil soaked, it came back to life over 24 hours, taking on its full original form and loosing about 150 years.
The Walnut revealing beautiful deep marbling that was totally hidden before.
Yep, if used the right way, it's almost magical in its effect.
Like Peter said check the barrel up lift for contacting the top front H/guard from memory there should be @5-6lbs up lift, this can be checked after you have done your paper thing with the rifle assembled put it in a vice (Jaws protected) or cleaning station upside down then with a spring weight or items that weigh that amount use a piece of string looped around the barrel. Slowly apply the pressure downwards whilst A) keeping an eye on the scale B) Watching for movement of the barrel from the bottom of the barrel channel (Now the top of the barrel).
Then when the target weight is reached ensure the top of the barrel (Now the bottom of the barrel) in no way touches the front top wood otherwise if it does it alters the flip (Harmonics) of the barrel at the most critical part the muzzle and this needs to be relieved (Top front fore wood) so it does not contact the barrel with 5-6lbs uplift pressure. I suggest you get a small scale for the activity
E Moose offered a quick fix which is okay short term and may be fine but cork is not a hard wood therefore will compress over time thus causing a loss in uplift you usually find things go south at the worst possible time like it degrades/breaks up on you halfway through a comp you can always find a junked fore end and practice cutting in the hard wood and doing radius's prior to attempting yours if need be. Also Peter neglected to state like he usually does for such stock workings use aircraft grade adhesive glue that way it ain't ever going to move.....Good luck hope it works out for you but if the linseed revitalizes the stock and it regains its required uplift and the barrel is centered in the tip then disregard the above.
Lots of info here, thank CINDERS. Hopefully the linseed oil helps out.
I applied the first coat using my hands. The wood on the inside sucked it all up immediately and I had to put on 2 more coats before any would sit on the surface. I gave the exterior a coat as well. After 1/2 an hour I wiped it all down and let it sit. This morning it has a nice satin sheen and I think tonight I can give it another coat. No idea if this is helping though.
Before pics
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...w4zcxdjh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...qbtayzhs-1.jpg
You can see in this pic that the barrel did indeed have its required contact with the forend at some point in time.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...djv1vago-1.jpg
Form here it looks to have been deliberately hogged a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by ricohman
Just the pic. The seller unwrapped it from new. And with the grease still present under the front sight guard and along side the receiver and in the mag well, I don't believe he ever had it apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
The forend cut is uniform and smooth. A piece of paper slide easy from the knox to the end of the forend. At this point I am doubting that the oil will restore this fitment. The gap seems to large.
I also think I am going to give my other rifles a treatment to prevent this from happening.
That furniture colour is just bang on a few pics of it on the rifle would give us a grand view of the whole set up. Thanks for sharing.
Gotcha...Quote:
Originally Posted by ricohman
You could try a wallpaper paste tray for your oil vessel and soak them...? Hold them down with a weight and pour it until it covers the wood? You're right, it sure won't hurt them.Quote:
Originally Posted by ricohman
That's a good idea. The wood seems pretty dry again tonight. I slathered the oil on heavy and I wait about 45 minutes and wipe all the excess off.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
I may soak this thing good on the weekend if there is no improvement. I know some woods take oil, stain or whatever in very slowly. And there is only so much that can soak in.
No need to wipe it off after 45 mins, just let it sit, the wood will draw in as much as it needs, it won't go off or set.
Same can't be said for boiled linseed, that will set like concrete!
That's a lesson I learned the hard way when I was 15, refinishing my first rifle stock and mixed them up...