There is only a choice of two.
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I like rifle "forensics" though! My last pass / chance at finding its origin would have been ratifying an FTR removal of "US Property" marks as a policy or process- there could be feint traces remaining - when you try to look for such things, eyes and inferred images can be deceiving. Of course I can go through every inch of it again in a future total strip down for the tiny odd marks / tells that I may have missed this time. I also have a set or two of early low wall No4 wood which is more age appropriate for it - albeit marked by Sykes.
The Ml1* bolt removal system probably "seemed a good idea at the time, your Worship", if starting with brand-new, correctly specced components.
However as bodies and bolts wear, the amount of "vertical' wobble increases and the lug on the bolthead floats up and down more. There is almost NO "vertical" support for the bolt body as it travels, apart from a bit of radiused surface in the top and bottom of the raceway. That "vertical float" causes the bolt-head to "rock" up and down and thus catch the ends of the gap.
A good TIG welder operator can build up the ribs with minimal "clean-up" required. The family motor-cycle mechanic and welding guru advises that a copper or similar shield with an extended centre tab to fit the "gap" and other edges to match the tapered profile of the slot will reduce the "clean-up" and act as a heat-sink.
How hard would it have been to fabricate a simple piece of "clock-spring" such that the bottom end hooked under the RHS sidewall and was clamped in place by the fore-end and with the top end folded in to "fill" the gap and having a small, turned-down tab to retract it? "What if" and all that jazz.
Oh, and chamfer the ends of the bolt-head "rib" for good measure.
Yes, they did them convert Mk1's and 1/1's commercially. The reason was because they wanted to keep their own ROF's busy. BSA only got the No8 contracts later through gritted teeth for a couple of commercial reasons
This particular rifle appears to have been a Savage.
The "give away" is the second cut at the base of the front "pad relief" recess, and the "pad relief" itself - Long Branch never contoured their receivers this way.
Attachment 100668
Looking at engraving, I'd say that BSA never engraved their work as badly as that. That is dire..... Looks like someone did it in the dark, with his feet......
Thanks Lee Enfield - An observation and snippet I did not previously know (I skipped receiver profile class). It does have a couple of Savage marked parts in the mix also. PL - Keep the engraving mirth coming - I'm dying with laughter here! It still shoots well IMHO :) Maybe optically occluded pedal finishing is the way to go?...
If you want to save it maybe take a piece of brass flat bar of the right thickness and profile the edge to match the bolt head guide, insert under the remaining rail and get the missing bits built up with TIG welding. I guess if you really wanted to get clever, you could take a piece of say, 1/8" flat and have that profile machined into one edge about 3/16 back from the original edge. That should leave you with a little projecting block that you could machine to fit precisely to the size of the original bolt head release slot. Then all your welder has to do is work up to the edges and build up enough for you to file it back to match the original profile of the rail. Then sell or rent it to those who want to repair their own!