The original is stiff and does not bend easy, better steel that bends and springs back. Look at the patina on the metal. Look for rounded edges from use. Look for wear marks. Looks for dirt , rust and wear to the edges of the patch hole. There is generally milling marks on originals not smooth like found on the reproductions and there is a color and patina change to the portion of an original cleaning rod the was inside the covered and protected by the wood and the portion that was exposed out the storage hole. The original rod is not entirely a uniform color. Notice specific wear patterns, not a faked uniform blue removal with a scrubby. It is an experience thing- the more real ones you see, makes a fake will just stand out. No deep black blue or real sharp images on an original. Too smooth a surface and I would wonder. I have never posted images here, I am more on the surplusrifleforum, but due to a server switch all the photos of key posts have been removed so I can not show any examples. Now consider who is selling it. If a dealer, it could be faked to get a bigger buck, but a family getting rid of a surplus WW II item may buy a reproduction rod, but not go to extremes to add wear and age. They do not buy top of the line fakes, just stuff commonly found on flee bay. So who is selling the rifle is something to consider. Most reproduction rods are cheep Chinese or Indian made fakes that bend very easy due to soft metal. An original rod is tough and has spring to the steel. It' s like reproduction Civil War bayonets. Stick a Springfield into the ground upright with a real bayonet it stays erect, do that with a reproduction bayonet, the rifle will fold over on the easily bent bayonet.
Look at the threads on an original from some on line photos, look at the reproductions on eBay. Look at how the original rod end shape is to the threads and how long the section of threaded steel is. Look at how the top end misshaped formed: rounded or sharp. Some rods have Japanese letters as a makers mark. I no longer remember which ones. Now, there are some machinists that make excellent, strong reproductions and some age these so it is difficult to tell. They are so good you will not know. You would find these at high price dealers or auction houses that put parts back on rifles to get top buck. There are more fakers of M1 carbines and K98 Mausers, than Japanese rifles.
Here are some pictures of originals from Libertytreecollectors. nice photos.
https://www.libertytreecollectors.co...idproduct=2503
In contrast here is an IMA cheep reproduction that bends like a coat hanger:
https://www.ima-usa.com/products/jap...nt=26157213829
Another fake ,but it shows the ends and threads:
https://www.desertcart.com.kw/produc...9-cleaning-rod
There is no tutorial on Arasaka Cleaning rods, but here is one about K98 rods that might give you some clues what to look for: threads, patina, edges, blue>
Original German WWII Era 10 & 12 Inch Cleaning Rods
If from a private person and a rare maker with original stock, matching; if you can get it at $500 grab it. Risk it. Bring backs are getting hard to find.
If it is a nice arsenal like Jinsen (star mark) or Hotel-Mukden (circle with 3 spokes inside a circle ) it's really nice. And be sure it was not rechambered to 30-06.
