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An original replacement would be the best bet. Repops will also do the job without question. However it is still an interesting project to tackle. Wait until you have an original replacement just in case.
Based on the time period of manufacture the grips are almost undoubtedly made of Bakelite. Bakelite is a phenolic plastic made from a linseed oil base and other ingredients very similar to Linoleum. It's not usual but on occasion a thin metal framework could be within however that's a rarity. To test for Bakelite take some Formula 409 cleaner and put a drop or 2 on the back of the grip. If it changes from pink to yellow it's undoubtedly Bakelite. Any oil or grease in that spot will interfere with the test so it may have to be done more than once in the same spot.
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Bakelite is what I would have assumed but they say bakelite will not warp so if that's the case, it can't be bakelite as it's obviously warped.
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Other than Celluloid which was unsuitable for the purpose there wasn't anything else available at the time. Polymer plastics didn't come about until the late 30's and weren't perfected until the early 40's during wartime. Even Bakelite is heated to be formed. If that grip panel was exposed to a sufficient amount of heat it would warp.
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I found a Dreyse database which has the pistols in the same serial range as having horn grips. So these would be pressed cow horn. Heat or water is now the question. I'm reading heat in an oven at 325. Water can cause delamination. Concerned the high heat and pressure could hurt the checkering or logo. High heat makes it rubbery.
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Pressed cow horn? That is not a plastic.
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It is not plastic, but it seems to be the consensus of what these grips are. Cow horn is the same material as hair, just highly compressed or dense in comparison. High heat supposedly makes it rubbery.
But what complicates this is are the grips original or not. They are old but are they replacements. One is brown, the other black but under the black they are brown. It looks like the one is delaminated in a few small areas which might support the cow horn premise.
In any case, heat seems to be the solution in any case so I might try it.
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Total failure guys. Tried a blow dryer first, nothing, put it in the oven at 220, nothing, went to 280, nothing, went to 300, nothing. Time to research some more. I know one guy said to go to 320 with cow horn but this might be a replacement and something else. On a positive note, no harm was done either.
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Have you considered steam? Now that I know it's a natural product steam seems to make sense. However the potential for damage is strong with steam especially if its a laminate. I'd use it in baby step increments.
Replacements are sounding better and better.
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I think any heating would, dry, water, or steam, would ruin the adhesive between layers if it's laminate. If solid you can protect the detailed using a piece of neoprene rubber on top to press it after softening in hot water.
As a teenager I would volunteer at an aircraft museum in the restoration shop. We would fab all kinds of aluminum parts like this...make a pattern with a wood block, cut a sheet of aluminum, and press it around the block into neoprene with a hydrolic press. Then send it off for hardening. Perfect every time.
