Stock Finishing

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Originally Posted by P.W.Browning

That being said, I found out through experimentation that I got identical results by heating a much smaller amount of oil, and brushing it on using a natural bristle brush. It saved the hassle of keeping and heating a few gallons of oil. Now I can do it with about a pint of oil.-Patrick

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Patrick, is there a temperature you should shoot for/avoid because of flammability, or do you just want to warm it enough to aid in penetration? Pure tung oil is available locally. I looked at the BLO I had and you are right on the money. Protection of gardening equipment. I guess I'll use it on my shovel handles!

I couldn't recall off the top of my head so I just checked the MSDSs at a few places online and see that Pure Tung Oil and Raw Linseed Oil both have flash points listed at over 230.

I use a cheap candy making thermometer and heat in a stainless steel bowl to about 125 degrees. I use an inexpensive hotplate and do this all outdoors.

I cut open a big garbage bag and then drive a 3 to 4 foot length of rebar a foot or so into the ground right in the middle of the bag. This will protect your lawn, as drops of heated oil will kill grass. I place the stock on the rebar, luckily Garand and 03 Stocks both have nice lightening and tool storage recesses in the butt. This will position the stock at an easy to work level and give you full access to brush with the exception of the very end of the butt.

Then I heat the oil and brush it on liberally. Get it everywhere, inside, outside, all over it. Let it rest at least 30 minutes, then grab a wad of paper towels and wipe it dry. Wipe it down a few times over the course of the day. Ideally by that evening, you don't have much (if any) to wipe off. The used paper towels can be a combustion hazard, so watch out. Since I use Raw Linseed Oil and Pure Tung Oil, I usually burn the oil soaked paper towels on my grill, eliminating any worry. You can't do that with BLO safely due to the chemical hardeners.

I give the stock a few days to rest, and check daily to wipe down any that is seeping out. If you get any spots that look like the oil has glazed over (mainly seen when using Tung Oil) use some synthetic steel wool or the finest sandpaper you used on the stock to get rid of that spot.

Next, several repeated hand rubbings and you are on the way to a very nice looking stock via a more practical (for the hobbyist) modification of the original processes using the original materials.

I'll try to post a few photos of new stocks I have done tomorrow.

-Patrick

My use of RLO may have sounded far more elaborate than it really was. I did almost all of my RLO stock finishing in the summer. I just used the heat of the Sun to “warm” the RLO. I had a 1gal. can (panted black) of RLO that I set in the Sun for a day or two, our daytime temps were often in the teens or higher and night time temps seldom got below 85. I have a container that would just hold a full length 03 stock, I would place the stock (also warmed in the sun) in the container. Add the warm RLO, and let it set. The stock was held under with a block of steel. I had no idea what the temp of the oil was. I was involved in two large rebuild and building projects of M1903s, but even then I have never added outside heat to RLO.

P.W.
I also do not understand the reluctance of people to use RLO. I really think it is be cause most people do not know there is a difference between RLO and BLO. This term ’BLO’ just seems to roll off posters fingers, but most just think that just means all Linseed Oils. The when they go to their ’Box Store’, BLO is all they see, so they figure that is IT.

Many years ago I used a lot of RLO but I think Tung is easer to apply and gives a nicer finish, but that is me. So if it was to be an oil finish I stuck to Tung Oil. Today if I must finish a stock, it is sanded in and hand rubbed oil base varnish. Another source for RLO is art or hobby supply stores, they sell it in in little bottles.


MJ1

My rebuilding of captured Small Arms took place on an ARVN installation near Bong Son. This was first half of 68. You are about the third person to have told me they were involved in similar projects. I have some theories as to the end use of these AK, SKS & RPGs . They range from the usual CIA/SF stories,, to simply some senior (or not so senior) US and/or ARVN officers, out to make a little extra money. But as I said, ’theories’.



45B20

Thanks! I was reading this to get an idea on how to finish a Boyd's stock I have for carbine. I am going with th Formby's and a red oak stain. I have a birch I did years ago and it still looks good. It was one of those painted red looking finishes to begin with.